Customer Questions and Answers for Thermal Fuse (Disposable, One Time Fuse) by Whirlpool

Hello Tammie, This sounds like the thermal fuse WP3392519. No one like to hear this, but the exhaust needs to be checked for crimps or clogs. You see, the thermal fuse is opened by temperature, so if you just replace it, it will fail again rather quickly. The exhaust needs to be checked to make sure there is sufficient air flow to get the heat, lint, and moisture out of the unit. The dryer drum rides on felt seals, so if there is too much back pressure built up from the ducting, it is too easy for the pressure to blow past the felt seals, and this puts the heat back into the cabinet with the thermal fuse. This will blow it again. There is a test kit to determine if the air flow in you ducting system is sufficient. The part number is W11224254 and it's called a dryer vent test kit.

Hello Darrenle. 1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. 2. Open the door. 3. Push on the retaining clips located under top of dryer on the right and left side using a flat object such as a putty knife. 4. Slowly rotate top backwards and lean against wall, or support with a prop rod. 5. Disconnect the door switch wire harness located on the right side. 6. Remove the front panel/door assembly by removing the two front cover screws at the top of the panel inside the cabinet, and lifting upward. 7. Disconnect the moisture sensor connections. 8. Remove the lint screen. 9. Remove the lint screen housing by removing the four screws holding the lint screen housing. 10. Remove the front bulkhead by loosening the upper two screws and removing the lower two screws. 11. Lower components including the thermal fuse WP3390719 can be accessed at this time; however, if the drum is to be removed, the belt must be removed. Hope this helps.

Hello Brad. Now it is time you start tracing the voltage and see where you are loosing it at. The bad thing about this is the drum will need to be replaved and the motor running. This is the only way you are going to locate where the voltage is lost going to the timer. Everything you posted, is in the circuit, but the igniter is not glowing. You may have a bad motor or timer not sending power. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hi Dale. In the back of the control panel laying horizontally under the push to start switch is a DC motor relay . I will suspect this internal coil is getting weak and making the relay itself part # WP3405281 fall out of circuit. There is a supplied technicians diagnostic sheet with the unit in a packet. It has the wiring diagram's you can use the volt/ohm meter part #MA-DM1 to trace it out or put it into a field service test. This will bring up fault codes to lead you to the circuit and wires that can be at fault. Make sure all contacts are clean and tight. Thank You.

Mark, Did you check and make sure there were no lint clogs, in the lint filter housing and blower assembly and wheel ? And the tumbler seals for tears and damage. If all's OK, you want to check the dryer exhaust temperature, with a thermometer, it should average 155 dgrs. +/- 10% after 10 or 15 minutes of running and heating. You have a hi limit thermostat W11050897 that could be weak and cycling early, or a weak regulating thermostat WP8318268 due to a failed bias heater or chemical build up from softner etc. Thanks

Terri, Very good guess, Yes, if the thermal fuse WP3390719 located on the blower housing has an "open" circuit, the motor will not start or run, until it's replaced. You can tetst it for a closed Circuit with a multimeter, or "bypass" it temporarily to see if the motor starts and runs. Thanks and Good Luck

Ma;ry, The "E1" error code would indicate an issue with the thermistor WP8577274(example only) usually located on the blower housing, or the wiring from the thermistor to the control board on the left side of the cabinet interior. Of course it could also be the control board itself, but that's not likely at this point. Thanks and Good Luck

Hello Deann. Remove the front panel of the dryer and check and see if the belt WP8544742 has come off the pulley for the blower wheel. Also, check and make sure the nut has not come off the shaft for the pulley for the blower. If so, use thread locker and apply it to the threads and reinstall the nut. Hope this helps.

Kenny, On the thermal fuse (almost any two terminal switch or component) it doesn't matter. Thanks and Good Luck

Hi John. You need to replace the motor part # is 279827. Thank you.