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Customer Questions and Answers for Thermal Fuse by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM13269576
Manufacturer Part Number: W10258275

The Thermal Fuse Kit is a genuine OEM Replacement part. This kit is designed to cut off power to the dishwasher if it overheats. The fuse ensures that your appliance operates safely and effectively. If your dishwasher is not starting, it may be due to a failed thermal fuse. Investigate what caused the dishwasher to overheat before replacing the thermal fuse.

This Kit Includes:

  • (1) Thermal Cutoff (TCO)
  • (1) Harness Assembly
  • (2) Zip Ties
  • Instructions

Specs:

  • Electrical specs: 86°C, 187°F fuse
  • Construction: metal/plastic
  • Fuse dimensions: 5/8""L x 5/8""W x 1-1/4""H
  • Harness and plug dimensions: 4-7/8""L
  • Zip tie dimensions: 6-3/4""L

Repair your dishwasher today with the Thermal Fuse Kit and ensure that your appliance operates safely and efficiently for years to come.

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$30.95
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$36.83
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Thermal Fuse (Part Number: OEM13269576)

Kwsutter for Model Number MDB7759AWB0

Our Maytag dishwasher was getting the 7 blink clean light symptom. I chatted with one the experts on your website and we narrowed it down the heating element, the high limit thermostat, or the control board. Since the control board was more expensive and out of stock, I went with the heating element and thermostat. I wrote about this experience via one of your "featured stories" (https://www.appliancepartspros.com/diy-story-clean-light-blinking-times-diy6423387.html). The 7 blink clean light is back... I chatted with Rachel this morning. She suggested checking out the thermal fuse. Our chat got cut off, so I decided to check that out this afternoon. I took off the front of the dishwasher and checked for continuity across the thermal fuse. Looks good. So, what else could it be? Is the control board the only other option? Is there any way to determine if it's a control board issue? The 7 blink clean light doesn't happen with every wash. Maybe every 3 or 4 washes. I clear it out and the dishwasher works just fine until it happens again. BTW, I'm fine with replacing the heating element and high limit thermostat, even if it looks like these were not the culprits. Being 12 years old, these items were bound to fail soon anyway. Thanks for your help!

1 Answer

Kwsutter, Unfortunately, the control board will be the last thing aside from making sure that there is no loose or damaged wiring or connections.

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1 Answer

Joe J, You will need the tech sheet supplied with your machine and a multimeter. Then start by checking the components and wiring for a shortage.

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Ian for Model Number GU3200XTVY0

My thermal fuse blew last week after having the dishwasher for a decade. I replaced it and ran a glasses only cycle and it worked just fine. We ran a regular cycle with a full load of dishes next and the fuse blew again. The dishes were somewhat clean and there was dirty water left in the base of the washer when we opened it. Power to the fuse, nothing after. I have checked the connections, wire integrity etc and can't find any issues. I have read it could be the thermistor or the temperature sensor that are causing the fuse to blow, but I can't seem to find replacement parts. Everything is pointing me in the way of the turbidity sensor, which only measures water quality. Does this has a heat sensor in it? Is this worth replacing or am I wasting time and money? Thanks

1 Answer

Hello Ian, the thermal fuse W10258275 in the control panel area does not involve the heating element in the bottom of the tub. The thermal fuse comes as a kit and all of the kit must be used. If i it fails then there is something overheating in the control panel area, usually its a component on the control board or where the main wiring connects to the control board.

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1 Answer

Ed, it would be recommended that the user panel be inspected to identify if the control lock has been activated. If it has, it can be disengaged and the unit tested for operation. If the lock is not on, the clean light would need to be identified if it is flashing 7 times or not. If not, and none of the keys are operating, the failure would likely be in the main control WPW10084142.

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1 Answer

Mark, This would confirm that the thermal fuse is faulty but would not be recommended to leave the jumper wire in place to run the dishwasher.

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1 Answer

Jack, the thermal fuse W10258275 would cut out at 86°C (187°F) and is normally caused by a component overheating. The wire harness would need to be inspected for any bare spots that could cause an excessive current draw, as well as inspecting the wire connections to ensure they are on tightly and not flared out. If the harness checks good, the motor (3-7O on the run windings [violet wire to the blue wire] and 6-10O on the start winding [violet wire terminal to the yellow wire terminal] when the wires are disconnected) and the heating element (10-30O) would need to be checked for the necessary resistance to identify if they could be causing excessive temperatures. The other components would need to be inspected for signs of overheating as well.

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1 Answer

Hello GR, a drop should not have affected it, you can test with a multimeter, the thermal fuse should have continuity.

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1 Answer

Hello Bobby, the manufacturer was finding that when just the thermal fuse was replaced there was a poor terminal to terminal connection from the fuse terminals to the wire harness terminals resulting in high resistance and a heat build up at the terminals and causing the thermal fuse to do a false trip, so the replacement fuse has factory-installed terminals with wires to prevent this from occurring.

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1 Answer

Art, If the control panel is dead the first thing to check will be the thermal fuse on the control board. W10258275. This should be closed when tested for continuity.

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