Customer Questions and Answers for Thermistor by Whirlpool

Hello Travis, thank you for contacting APP, Usually that thermistor is secured to the suction line of the evaporator. This is the larger line coming off of the evaporator coil and the thermistor is usually placed on the black casing that covers the joining between the aluminum and copper tubing.

Mike, If the heater and the sensor are good, with no air leaks you will likely have a control issue.

Brian, when testing the defrost circuit from the main control using the brown wire at the connection P2 pin 7 to the white wire at connection P1 pin 2, there should be a reading between 30 to 42 Ohms. If the resistance is not being measured through the wires but they were at the defrost heater, and the thermal fuse had continuity, then there is a wire failure. If the resistance is measured from the wires, the next step would be to inspect just under the evaporator to identify if the defrost drain is clear. If there is ice in the pan under the evaporator, the defrost drain would need to be cleared.

Brian, the defrost heater WPW10436849 would need to be tested for resistance and it should measure between 30 to 42 Ohms of resistance. If the heater tests good, the next step would be identifying if there is an air leak from a gap in the door gasket. If there is not an air leak, it would be likely that the main control W11035836 is not allowing a full defrost cycle to occur.

Garry, based on the information provided, the thermistors would need to be replaced.

Gary, with the power supply cord unplugged, the defrost circuit would need to be tested from the main control using the wires found at the connection CN1. From the brown wire at pin 5 to the white wire at pin 1, there should be a resistance reading between 30 to 42 Ohms. If the reading shows open, then the thermal fuse in the harness W11244436 has failed. If the reading is good, the next step would be testing the evaporator thermistor WPW10383615 and the cabin thermistor WPW10384183 using the connection CN2 on the main control. The wires found at pin 1 and 2 will be used for the evaporator thermistor, and the wires at pin 3 and 4 would be used for the cabin thermistor. The thermistors, at room temp 77°F should have a resistance value of about 2700 Ohms, or at 36°F (in ice water) with a value of 7964 Ohms.

Hello Ernie, you did not mention what major components were already replaced so we will go with a general answer. When this occurs the frost pattern on the evap coil needs to be checked, it would indicate whether there is a sealed system problem or a defrost problem. Also if the compressor is regularly cycling off then the control/thermistor l thinks the internal temperature is correct and has cycled the compressor off. If however, the compressor is running nonstop then the control /thermistor sees the internal temperature is not low enough and is trying to cool down further and that would indicate a cooling /defrost problem.

Bob, if the freezer air control is set to the recommended setting and there is not an air leak through the door gaskets, the failure would likely be in the main control WPW10643378 if there is proper airflow through the vents.

Hello Yiwei, the thermistor is reading in range. Suggest you thaw the evap coil completely, secure the thermistor to the tubing with a wire tye or two, and overwrap with a small strip of foil tape, if the coil again builds up an ice (not frost ) block in the same area there is a sealed system problem.

Dave, the evaporator thermistor WPW10383615 would need to be tested for resistance to identify if it is reading properly. The thermistor, at room temp 77°F and have an ohm value of about 2700O, or at 36°F (in ice water) with a value of 7964O. The meter should be set at a higher range than the highest ohm rating of the part so that would be 10,000O (10k).