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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer High Limit Thermostat by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18024972
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3391914

Dryer won't heat or overheats? The high limit thermostat monitors drum temperature. Moderate DIY repair with heater housing access required.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer High Limit Thermostat (Part Number: OEM18024972)

Jason for Model Number Whirlpool Duet 8533582 And Thermostat 3391914

I submitted a question before that I had a follow up to. The original question is below. Follow up: Unfortunately I don't see a gauge on the wire. It is a red wire with the writing: AWM Style 1015 OR 1230 105•C 600V E49677(M) CSA TEW. That's all I see. Does this writing tell you the gauge? Thanks, Jason Original: Whirlpool Duet 8533582 My Whirlpool 3391914 Fixed Thermostat overheated and melted. I bought another Thermostat but the connectors to the thermostat also burnt. The wires themselves look okay but I need to replace the connectors (AMP Female Disconnects) to the thermostat. At the hardware store I see different AWG sizes (16-14 .250 or 12-10 .250). The guy at Home Depot said it was the 16-14 or 12-10. Is any of this making sense? I've replaced the fuse and the heating element in the past but might be over my head here. Jason for Model Number 3391914 Fixed Thermostat For The Whirlpool Duet 8533582 ANSWER Hello Jason, If you look at the wire that goes to the thermostat it will have writing on it that tells you what gauge the wire is. Normally this wire would be 16-14 but you want to check the wire itself to see. Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Thursday, November 29, 2012

1 Answer

Hello Jason. Those are manufacture numbers. You may need to remove the wire and take it with you to the store to buy some. Or you can order the complete wiring harness for the unit.

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Jason for Model Number 3391914 Fixed Thermostat For The Whirlpool Duet 8533582

Whirlpool Duet 8533582 My Whirlpool 3391914 Fixed Thermostat overheated and melted. I bought another Thermostat but the connectors to the thermostat also burnt. The wires themselves look okay but I need to replace the connectors (AMP Female Disconnects) to the thermostat. At the hardware store I see different AWG sizes (16-14 .250 or 12-10 .250). The guy at Home Depot said it was the 16-14 or 12-10. Is any of this making sense? I've replaced the fuse and the heating element in the past but might be over my head here.

1 Answer

Hello Jason, If you look at the wire that goes to the thermostat it will have writing on it that tells you what gauge the wire is. Normally this wire would be 16-14 but you want to check the wire itself to see.

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Robert, You didn't mention any error/fault codes in the display, when this occurrs. You should probably start at the dryer terminal block on the back of the dryer, make sure there are no loose connections where the line cord attaches. also check and make sure you have the proper power supply to the outlet and at the dryer terminal block. You'll find the tech data information sheet attached to the inside on the lower access panel, you'll be able to conduct several diagnostic tests using the information, and have a better idea of the issue.

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Hello Jason, Excessive current flow trips breakers. The breaker could be bad, the receptacle could be bad, and I would also check the terminal block (where the power cord connects to the terminal block).

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Hello Don, You need to make sure that the unit is getting 240Vac if it is an electric model. If it is a gas unit, the voltage should be 120Vac and you must have a good ground and neutral. There are several components in both the gas and electric models that, if open, will break the circuit and prevent the units' proper operation. If you could please re-post with a model number, we can help you to get the unit operating normally once again.

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Paul, The palce to start is the dryer door switch WP8283288. If the switch or wores are damaged, the dryer won't start and the check filter light will stay on. We'll send you some additional information that will help you out. Thanks

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Hello Paul. If the lint screen is clear, you may need to replace the thermistor in the unit.

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Hello Steve. You need to check and see if the heater is grounded out and staying on. If so, replace the heater. If the heater is good, the thermistor may be bad on the unit and will need to be replaced. Test the temperature coming out of the dryer duct and see if it cycles. If so, the vent is the issue with the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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Hi Terry. Take the top or the front panel off and use the supplied tech sheet to put the unit in a diagnostic mode. It will bring up fault codes of which circuit is affected to check. Start at the terminal block and see if you have 240 vac there. Than insure that you have 120 vac at the middle terminal (neutral) and each outer terminal. Scuff up the 2- inside sensor bars on the lint filter cover with a schotchbrite pad to get rid of the fabric softener sheet build up. The thermistor part # WP8577274 is on the blower housing. It should ohm out to 10,000 ohms cold . If it is more then 5% difference the replace it. It is the cycling sensor that controls the heater relay on/off from the control board part # (in essence). Make sure the vent is entirely clear and not restricted. Make sure the outside vent cap / hood is opening and closing properly 4-5x /yr. so lint and moisture does not back up and create a restriction causing these issues. Are there any fault codes showing already ? Make sure the control buttons are not stuck in. Check the exhaust temperature at 125°- on temperature- and when it reaches 150 ° it opens. Thank You.

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Mike, Based on your post information, you have a total of 46 ft. of "operating" vent. That would be considerred "borderline", maximum vent length is 50 feet of "operating" vent. A shorter, straighter vent system routing would be beneficial, but a booster fan would work as well. You may want to check the rear drum seal for an air leak due to a torn seal, or rolled seal, causing the air to escape, and heat the cabinet interior. Thanks and Good Luck

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