Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer High Limit Thermostat by Whirlpool

Hello Mike. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly. If it is good, then replace the thermister WP8577274. Hope this helps.

Hi David. Behind the control panel is a wiring diagram. The thermal fuse wires are blue and lt. blue,either post for hook up is Ok. The thermister is red/wht and black wires, either post is Ok. The heater is red and red/white. The red/wht wire needs to follow the heater post to the high limit. Then the other side of the high limit is black wire to the thermal cut -off. Then the other side of the thermal cut -off is a red wire to the electrtonic control board. Thank you.

Hello Marco! We have located model GEW9250PW1 (P instead of O). The high limit thermostat WP3391914 only includes one part and there is only one on your product. However, there is a thermal cut off kit available, part number 279973, which includes the thermal cut off and high limit thermostat. Our parts are OEM. Thanks!

Darrell, Are you sure you have 240 VAC at the terminal block on the back of the dryer ? You can remove the top and electronic control board cover and run a couple of tests there Disconnect the P2 harness connector from the board, and check across the red/white wire(pin 5)and the black wire(pin 6) for 10,000 ohms resistance at room temperature. Also, at the control board, on the heater relay, with power applied, you should read 120 VAC from the black wire to chassis ground. with the dryer running, in a heat mode, you should read 120 VAC on the red wire to chassis ground, if the heater relay is operating properly. Otherwise you'll need to check and make sure there are no loose or damaged wires on the heater circuit and components. Thanks, and Good Luck.

Hello Phillip. You will need to unplug the wires going to the heater. Then test from each wire to ground and see which wire is not sending 120 volts to the heater. Trace the wire and see if the motor 279787 will need to be replaced or the control board WPW10111606. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Lorie. Here is a test you can do to determine if the thermister WP8577274 is bad. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html TEST #3a Thermistor Test The machine control electronics monitors the exhaust temperature using the thermistor, and cycles the heater relay on and off to maintain the desired temperature. Begin with an empty dryer and a clean lint screen. 1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power. 2. Set the following configuration: ? Door – must be firmly closed ? Press Control On ? Press End Of Cycle Signal (Louder) ? Press Start 3. If after 60 seconds, E1 or E2 flashes in the display and the dryer shuts off, the thermistor or wire harness is either shorted or open. ? Unplug dryer or disconnect power. ? Check wire connections at the machine control electronics and thermistor. ? If wire connections are good, remove the two wires from the thermistor and replace the thermistor. See figure 8. ? Plug in dryer or reconnect power. 4. If E1 or E2 does not flash in the display, the connections to the thermistor are good. Therefore, check the thermistor’s resistance value at any or all of the temperature levels in question, using the Timed Dry Cycle, and the following process: Hold a glass bulb thermometer capable of reading from 90° to 180°F (32° to 82°C) in the center of the exhaust outlet. The correct exhaust temperatures are as follows: High 155° ± 10°F (68° ± 6°C) 10–15°F (6–8°C) below the heat turn off temperature Medium 140° ± 10°F (60° ± 6°C) Low 125° ± 10°F (52° ± 6°C) Extra Low 105° ± 5°F (41° ± 3°C) 5. If the exhaust temperature is not within specified limits, check the resistance of the thermistor. NOTE: All thermistor resistance measurements must be made while dryer is unplugged or disconnected from power. The table below gives the resistance values that should be observed for the various temperature settings. High 155° ± 10°F (68° ± 6°C) 2.5 & 1.5 Medium 140° ± 10°F (60° ± 6°C) 4.0 & 3.0 Low 125° ± 10°F (52° ± 6°C) 5 & 4.3 Extra Low 105° ± 5°F (41° ± 3°C) 6 & 5 ? If the thermistor resistance checks within normal limits, replace the machine control electronics.

Hello MM! I'm glad that our website and resources could help you. Please contact us at anytime you are ever in need of repair or parts assistance, we will be more than happy to help! Thank you for your business!

Hello MM. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Also check the heater and thermal fuses and see if they are good. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Hope this helps.

Hello Steve. You will need to test the thermister WP8577274, and make sure it is good. It should read around 10,000 ohms at room temperature. Also, make sure the vent is clear. You can test this with a multi-meter MA-DM1. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html