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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Timer by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18027126
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3977678

Timer won't advance and dryer runs continuously? This 4-cycle timer controls cycle selection and timing. DIY repair typically takes 15-20 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Timer (Part Number: OEM18027126)

Rob for Model Number Kenmore 110.79522800

Resubmitted with model number as requested! I'm pretty sure this is the proper replacement part for my Kenmore gas dryer. I can see that has proper places for all of the wires, with the exception of two that are labeled "WR" and "T" on the old timer. What are those wires for, why aren't there plugs for them on the replacement timer, and what should I do? Could I just plug in the wires that have corresponding plugs and leave those to unplugged? Thanks in advance for any help!

1 Answer

Rob, the timer WP3977678 is the correct part number for the model provided. The terminals WR and T are used for the buzzer on the unit. It looks like the image is an older version of this timer and the replacement timer should have the WR and T terminals.

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1 Answer

Rob, if the model number of your appliance could be provided in a new question, this will allow the most accurate information to be presented.

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Darrell for Model Number 110.60622990

The Kenmore dryer I have does not heat. It runs fine otherwise. All the thermal fuses and thermostats have continuity, the coil is reading about 9-10ohms. It does not appear to have any power getting to the thermal fuses or coils.It's getting 120v on each leg, 240v from the wall at the terminal block. It did do something weird where on a timed run it advanced all the way to the end of a timed cycle but it did not cut off like it didn't finish the last click in the timer to break the connection. I checked the timer resistor and it's reading 5kohm as it should. Is there a way to check the voltage for L1 and L2 closer to the source? I wasn't sure what test points to use. I imagine it has to be the motor switch or relay 120v or the timer 120v going to the heating coil? It's got me a bit stumped because the timer and motor all appear to run fine.

1 Answer

Darrell,

You will want to get the tech sheet from the control panel and test at the timer to see if there is 120 vac coming off the timer to the heating element. If there is not then the timer would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Burnt Smell,

This issue would not be a timer issue and would most likely be caused by a issue with the motor since it worked for a very short time then shut off.

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1 Answer

Hello Steve,
I would verify the gas valve coils with a meter and make sure the flame sensor reads closed. The thermal fuse only opens when a ducting issue exists so you should verify a full 4 inch diameter duct to the outside of the home. The ducting issue can cause an issue with timer advancement but this will only occur on automatic cycles. Also verify there is no harness issue and the thermostat heater is not open, (these are the two small terminals on the cycling thermostat with violet wires to both). Be sure your meter is set to a high resistance setting since it can have anywhere from 10K ohms to 50K ohms of resistance.

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1 Answer

Hello Jim. It sounds like the timer is the issue and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Scott,

The only dumb questions are the ones not asked. This actually sounds like a ducting issue. If the duct is crimped off, excessively long and complicated, or the flexible stuff wadded up behind the unit, the heat, lint, and moisture will be forced to blow past the felt drum seals right back into the cabinet of the unit and will in turn open the thermostats. The dryer duct is the most neglected part of the home and the most denied as the cause of an issue with the dryer. Let us know if we can assist you further.

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2 Answers

Hi Pat. It Can, however it does send the voltage for the igniter, but the most common open in the gas circuit is the igniter part # is 279311. The timer is part # WP3977678. Thank you.

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2 Answers

Pat, Yes, the timer has a contact that must close in a dry cycle, to supply the 120 VAC to the gas valve through the thermostats and fuse. At present, I'm taking a guess and thinking a short occurred in the timer and damaged the internal contacts, since the dryer was working fine up to this point. Thanks for the inquiry

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