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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Timer (4-Cycle) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18027126
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3977678

This 4-cycle dryer timer controls cycle selection and timing, advancing through the program and shutting the dryer off at the end. Replacing a worn timer restores accurate cycle control and dependable start/stop operation.

  • Controls and advances the selected drying cycle on 4-cycle models
  • Routes power to the motor and heater circuits in the proper sequence for the chosen cycle
  • Ends the cycle and turns the dryer off at the correct time
  • Common symptoms of failure: cycle won't advance or runs too long; timer knob doesn't move; dryer won't start or won't shut off; intermittent operation
What's included: 1 timer assembly Install notes:
  • Disconnect power; for gas dryers, also shut off the gas supply
  • Access the control console; remove the rear cover to reach the timer
  • Photograph or label wiring; transfer wires to the new timer one at a time
  • Secure the timer, reassemble panels/knob, and run a test cycle to verify proper advancement

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$224.70
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Timer (4-Cycle) (Part Number: OEM18027126)

1 Answer

Rob, if the model number of your appliance could be provided in a new question, this will allow the most accurate information to be presented.

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Darrell for Model Number 110.60622990

The Kenmore dryer I have does not heat. It runs fine otherwise. All the thermal fuses and thermostats have continuity, the coil is reading about 9-10ohms. It does not appear to have any power getting to the thermal fuses or coils.It's getting 120v on each leg, 240v from the wall at the terminal block. It did do something weird where on a timed run it advanced all the way to the end of a timed cycle but it did not cut off like it didn't finish the last click in the timer to break the connection. I checked the timer resistor and it's reading 5kohm as it should. Is there a way to check the voltage for L1 and L2 closer to the source? I wasn't sure what test points to use. I imagine it has to be the motor switch or relay 120v or the timer 120v going to the heating coil? It's got me a bit stumped because the timer and motor all appear to run fine.

1 Answer

Darrell, You will want to get the tech sheet from the control panel and test at the timer to see if there is 120 vac coming off the timer to the heating element. If there is not then the timer would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Burnt Smell, This issue would not be a timer issue and would most likely be caused by a issue with the motor since it worked for a very short time then shut off.

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1 Answer

Hello Steve, I would verify the gas valve coils with a meter and make sure the flame sensor reads closed. The thermal fuse only opens when a ducting issue exists so you should verify a full 4 inch diameter duct to the outside of the home. The ducting issue can cause an issue with timer advancement but this will only occur on automatic cycles. Also verify there is no harness issue and the thermostat heater is not open, (these are the two small terminals on the cycling thermostat with violet wires to both). Be sure your meter is set to a high resistance setting since it can have anywhere from 10K ohms to 50K ohms of resistance.

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1 Answer

Hello Jim. It sounds like the timer is the issue and will need to be replaced on the unit.

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1 Answer

Hello Scott, The only dumb questions are the ones not asked. This actually sounds like a ducting issue. If the duct is crimped off, excessively long and complicated, or the flexible stuff wadded up behind the unit, the heat, lint, and moisture will be forced to blow past the felt drum seals right back into the cabinet of the unit and will in turn open the thermostats. The dryer duct is the most neglected part of the home and the most denied as the cause of an issue with the dryer. Let us know if we can assist you further.

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2 Answers

Hi Pat. It Can, however it does send the voltage for the igniter, but the most common open in the gas circuit is the igniter part # is 279311. The timer is part # WP3977678. Thank you.

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2 Answers

Pat, Yes, the timer has a contact that must close in a dry cycle, to supply the 120 VAC to the gas valve through the thermostats and fuse. At present, I'm taking a guess and thinking a short occurred in the timer and damaged the internal contacts, since the dryer was working fine up to this point. Thanks for the inquiry

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1 Answer

Pat, You had the timer set in a timed dry setting, and it never advanced and shut off ? That would be due to a loss of power to the timer(not likely) or a defective timer and timer motor circuit. WP3977678 Thats where you need to start. To access the components in the console: 1. Remove two screws that secure the console to the top. 2. Lay the console forward onto the dryer top.(place a cloth or pad under the console to protect the finish on the top.) 3. Remove the screws that secure the back panel on the console. Good Luck and Thanks

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