Skip to Content
  • time delivery images 2 Day Quick Delivery!
  • box-refresh images 365 Day Return Policy!
  • lovely images 15 million satisfied customers
  • boxes images Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock
  • headphone imagesFree Tech Support!
  • google images Google Trusted Store

Customer Questions and Answers for Gas Valve by Whirlpool

Best Seller
Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18042513
Manufacturer Part Number: WP9763716

This genuine replacement part is a gas valve for stoves. The gas valve is the part that attaches to the burners allowing for gas to flow through, creating the necessary conditions for the stove to produce a flame. If the stove is no longer sparking a flame, or the burners are not working properly, the gas valve of the stove will need to be replaced. Luckily, this is a relatively simple repair.To get started, make sure that the stove is unplugged. After that, remove the grates, burner caps, and burner bases from the stove. Then proceed to remove the control knobs from the stove. Using a screwdriver, remove the screws securing the orifice holders to the main top. Once removed, lift off the top panel of the stove. Lift the seal from the valve stem and detach the spark switch. Proceed to remove the tubing from the valve. After that, use a socket or nutdriver to unthread the screw to release the valve bracket from the manifold. Once this is complete, detach the old gas valve. Install the new valve by positioning it on the gas tubing and manifold. Thread the nut to reconnect the gas tubing to the valve. Proceed to reinstall the top panel of the stove. This OEM part is sold individually and is compatible with Whirlpool, Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, and Roper brand stoves.

More
$355.24
Compare At:
$422.74
You Save:
$67.50

IN STOCK
Ships Tomorrow Guaranteed
Add to Cart

Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Gas Valve (Part Number: OEM18042513)

Scott E for Model Number KGSS907SSS00

Hi My Kitchenaid oven does not light. When I turn on the oven cycle, I get two clicks, the preheat electrical coil (Halo?) heats up, but no gas ignition. I have replaced both ignitors with new parts, but, alas the problem persists. Stove top is working just fine. The problem happened suddenly- no problems up to this point. The oven is about 8 years old. Can you recommend next steps? I thought the old ignitors looked good when I took them out, so I was suspicious that I did not diagnose the problem correctly. Thanks for any help!!

1 Answer

Hello Al. Yes, if you didn't replace anything, you will need to replace the regulator on the unit.

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Todd. It sounds like the control board is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. Make sure the wiring is good also.

Read More...

1 Answer

Brian, There is a probe in the oven in the upper left corner. You will want to check this probe to make sure that it shows a resistance at room temperature of 1090 ohms. If this checks ok then you will want to check the wiring between the control board and the oven sensor. If the wiring is ok then the issue will most likely be caused by a faulty control board or a bad oven safety valve.

Read More...

1 Answer

Jack, The resistance for the gas valve should be 216 ohms of resistance and it sounds like this would be the issue with the unit not heating.

Read More...
Shawn for Model Number GW395LEPS03

My oven quit igniting a few months ago. Initially I thought it was the ignitors, so I replaced them. Problem persisted. I eventually replaced the control board. Oven still will not ignite. However, the new control board that I installed had a diagnose feature that will supposedly tell you what is wrong with your appliance. The light on it indicates that the valve is the problem. I have removed the valve and attempted to test it, but it is different from any valve that I can find videos on, so I am not sure that I am testing it correctly. Also, originally I was able to hear the ignitors attempting to ignite when the problem first started, now I hear nothing when I try to start it. Stove top burners have functioned properly the whole time. Is there anything else that could be the problem besides the valve?

1 Answer

Hello Shawn. You have to ohm out the valve in the unit. The specs are 216 ohms for the valve.

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Tom. The specs are 216 ohms, so the valve is good for ohms. If the flame is going out, the regulator in the valve may be bad and the valve will need to be replaced for that.

Read More...
Jeff for Model Number KGRS807SBL00

Is the gas valve also the safety valve on this model? We have tried to replace the gas valve, the burner, the ignitor, and the 2 electronic boards. Nothing has worked. Our oven will ignite and preheat but then will not maintain temperature. It is as if it is always asking for gas and trying to ignite after the oven has been preheated. What could be the problem and what part would I need? The cook top works perfectly. We are thinking it is some sort of safety feature that is malfunctioning.

1 Answer

Hello Jeff, The gas valve and the oven valve are one and the same on this unit. I would look at the temperature sensor WPW10131825 since it is responsible for telling the control what temperature the bake compartment is running. It should read about 1100 ohms at about 70°F.

Read More...
Kimbrough M. for Model Number kgsa906pss00

I have a Kitchenaid gas oven kgsa906pss00 that I bought used. It was set up for natural gas and I purchased the conversion kit from you and installed it. The top burners work beautifully. When I start the oven, the flames come on for about 10 seconds and shut off. No matter how long it sits it won't try to light again. If I kill power to it for about 30 seconds and try it again, the flames come on for about 5-10 seconds and then shut off. It lights very quickly, but won't stay lit. I did flip the cap on the pressure regulator to the LP position. The flames look really good in the oven for the few seconds it is lit...there is a lot of flame in that it comes out from under the bottom pan by about 4 inches. The broiler does the same thing...full good looking flames. they do run off the spreader pan by an inch or so. I did run across a reference to something called a " spill switch" on another oven brand when I was searching online for some suggestions. Does this oven have something like that? If there is too much flame, how do I reduce that?

1 Answer

Hello Kimbrough, This sounds like an issue with the gas valve WP9763716, the spark module WPW10331686, and/or the burner 8191123. There is an air adjustment, (shutter), on the base of the burner which is used to fine tune the flame.

Read More...

Have questions? Ask our pros!

Contact us in a way that is convenient for you

Call us 1-877-477-7278
Need Help? Chat with a Pro
Or ask a question by filling in the form

Share your thoughts with other customers

Ask a Question
  • boxes images Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock
  • time delivery images 2 Day Quick Delivery!
  • box-refresh images 365 Day Return Policy!
  • headphone imagesFree Tech Support!
  • google images Google Trusted Store