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Customer Questions and Answers for Thermal Fuse by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18042057
Manufacturer Part Number: WP9759243

The Upper Oven Thermal Fuse is an OEM part compatible with Whirlpool double wall ovens. Located near the upper oven heating element, this safety device protects the upper oven cavity from excessive heat rises. If temperatures get too high, the fuse automatically cuts power to prevent overheating.

Symptoms of a blown upper oven thermal fuse include:

  • The upper oven failing to heat or losing total heating function
  • Burning smells emanating from the upper oven cavity
  • Safety shutdown errors related to over-temperature conditions

Common causes are airflow restriction trapping heat or faulty wiring allowing overheating. Natural aging also deteriorates fuses over extended use cycles.

Compatible brands include KitchenAid, Jenn-Air and some Kenmore wall oven models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Thermal Fuse (Part Number: OEM18042057)

1 Answer

Hello Tom, The F3 E2 fault code indicates an over temperature condition. If the temperature sensor and harness have been eliminated, the control WPW10340935 will have to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hello David, You will need to check the junction box where the electrical connections are connected to the home wiring and check the terminal block for loose connections. A loose connection will cause an increase in resistance which increases current flow. The control may still need to be replaced but correcting a connection issue will possibly prevent a repeat of the failure.

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Chuck H for Model Number RBS305PD

Control Panel for my Whirlpool Double Oven went out after cleaning cycle. Thanks stories and instructions on your website, I ordered and replaced the Thermal Fuse. Now the panel works, and the lower oven works, but not the top. Once again, thanks to your website, it looks like I need to replace the Thermal Overload (AP3885687). The instructions on your site for accessing the panel were clear and accurate. Can you provide instructions for removing the oven to access the rear in order to replace the Thermal Overload?

1 Answer

Chuck, When you open the door of the ovens there will be a screw on the side panel trim that you will need to remove and then pull out on the bottom of the trim, slide down and pull off. This will be for both sides. Once you have the trim off there will be screws holding going into the cabinet, remove the screws and this will allow you to slide the unit out to access the back.

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1 Answer

John, You will want to check the following. If it all checks ok then the control board will be the issue. 1.Disconnect power or unplug oven. 2.Check the latch assembly: latch arm pivot joint, arm/motor connection, plunger and hook springs. 3.Check the Latch Motor: - Check for firm electrical connections. - Disconnect the two wires from the motor and measure the resistance of the motor. The resistance should be approximately 2450 ?. If the motor is open (8?) or shorted (0?), it should be replaced. 4.Check the Latch Switch. Disconnect it and use a continuity tester: - Door latched = switch closed, continuity should read 0?. - Door unlatched = switch open, continuity should read 8?. 5.Check Door Open/Closed Switch. Disconnect it and use a continuity tester: - Door open = switch open, continuity should read 8?. - Door closed = switch closed, continuity should read 0?. 6.Check power and element connections.

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1 Answer

Hello Kathie, You should check voltage on the control transformer. There should be 120Vac from one red wire to the other and 20Vac from one blue wire to the other. If this is correct, replace the control WPW10438751. If not, replace the control transformer WP9760587.

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Brian for Model Number WFG510S0AW0

I have a gas stove that is about three years old. The oven will work fine some times other times it acts like it is trying to light and wont other times it seems like it is lighting but the temp is not up to temp. For example we will set at 375 and it will seem to preheat to that them you put something in the oven like a pizza. and it is not getting done. So we cancel it out and turn it to 375 and it says that it is heated to 290 only. even though it showed before we cancelled it 375. Any Ideas I replaced the igniter already thinking that was the problem? Any ideas I am thinking that it is the temp sensor?

1 Answer

Hello Jim. It sounds like the microcomputer 8186024 is bad. This part has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source or replacement for the part.

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1 Answer

William, The most likely cause for the issue that you are having would be the relay on the control board for broil being stuck closed and causing the unit to overheat. This would require a new control board part number WP8302994.

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