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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
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By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282771
Manufacturer Part Number: 279838

Restore full heat and end long dry cycles - install the Whirlpool OEM Dryer Heating Element.

Why this heating element?

  • Factory-spec 5400 W / 240 V heating element with nickel-chromium coil - built by Whirlpool to Whirlpool OEM standards.
  • Broad compatibility: fits Whirlpool, Kenmore 110-series, Roper, Estate, Amana, Maytag & more 27-inch dryers.
  • Built to last: high-temp terminals & mica insulation resist fatigue and hotspots.

Fixes these common dryer problems

Problem How the element solves it
No heat / cold drum Replaces burned-out coil to restore heating circuit
Takes forever to dry Full wattage brings drum back to target temperature
Stops mid-cycle Prevents over-cycling caused by faulty element
Burning smell New coil eliminates hot-spot arcing & insulation burn


DIY install — about 20 minutes

  1. Unplug dryer and remove back panel to access heater housing.
  2. Disconnect wires; remove housing screws and slide assembly out.
  3. Swap old element for new, re-use hi-limit thermostat if still good.
  4. Re-assemble, run test cycle - enjoy fast, even drying.

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$53.95
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part Number: OEM9282771)

1 Answer

Rose, Your dryer has a thermal fuse WP3392519 mounted on the blower housing. If the temperature rises above 195 dgrs. the fuse opens and eliminates the power to the motor, and the dryer won't start or run. You'll want to check and make sure the venting and vent hood are not clogged with lint or kinked, the lint filter is clean. You'll also want to remove the power and remove the rear panel from the dryer, remove the heater element assembly 279838 and check to make sure the element did not short out. Replace the thermal fuse and check the dryer for heat and operation.

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1 Answer

Hello Brenda. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked or is to long. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.

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1 Answer

Soledad, If the heating element has been replaced but it is still not working then you will want to check the continuity of the thermal fuse and the hi limit thermostat that is on the side of the heating element.

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Randall for Model Number LER4634EQ1

Model # LER4634EQ1 | type#122-00 |120/240 volts Dryer runs, timer works, it spins. The only thing that's not working is the heat. For a long time, the dryer would usually take two full cycles to get a full load of clothes dry. Now it doesn't heat up at all. I checked to ensure the duct was free of being clogged. At this point I am trying to determine if it is one of two things: Thermal Fuse, or Heating Element. Just really wanting to make sure I don't spend money unnecessarily on the Heating Element if all it needs is the much cheaper Thermal Fuse. Any help and advice would be appreciated! -Randall

Lloyd J. for Model Number 110.64732400

My Dryer wasn't producing any heat and following the Appliance PartsPros.com video, I checked the Heating Element in the Dryer to find out if it was blown. The element was in fact blown and I've been able to find the replacement part on the website (Whirlpool Part Number: AP3094254, compatible with my Kenmore Part Number: 8565582) but I'm not sure if I need to replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat and the Dryer Cycling Thermostat... I tested both of them with a tester but couldn't tell whether they were working or not.... am I doing something wrong? I found the replace Thermostats for both of these on the website.

1 Answer

Hello Lloyd, The meter should be put on the lowest resistance scale to read the thermostats. If they are good, they should read nearly the same as touching the two leads together. This is an indication of continuity. There willl be no substantial resistance through them as you read through a good heating element. They weill either be opened, (when hot), or closed. If they read opened when cold, they are bad.

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