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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
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By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282771
Manufacturer Part Number: 279838

Restore full heat and end long dry cycles - install the Whirlpool OEM Dryer Heating Element.

Why this heating element?

  • Factory-spec 5400 W / 240 V heating element with nickel-chromium coil - built by Whirlpool to Whirlpool OEM standards.
  • Broad compatibility: fits Whirlpool, Kenmore 110-series, Roper, Estate, Amana, Maytag & more 27-inch dryers.
  • Built to last: high-temp terminals & mica insulation resist fatigue and hotspots.

Fixes these common dryer problems

Problem How the element solves it
No heat / cold drum Replaces burned-out coil to restore heating circuit
Takes forever to dry Full wattage brings drum back to target temperature
Stops mid-cycle Prevents over-cycling caused by faulty element
Burning smell New coil eliminates hot-spot arcing & insulation burn


DIY install — about 20 minutes

  1. Unplug dryer and remove back panel to access heater housing.
  2. Disconnect wires; remove housing screws and slide assembly out.
  3. Swap old element for new, re-use hi-limit thermostat if still good.
  4. Re-assemble, run test cycle - enjoy fast, even drying.

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$53.95
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part Number: OEM9282771)

1 Answer

David, It is possible that it could be the heating element, the thermostats, thermal fuse etc. Here is how to determine if the heating element is bad. You check the fuses for continuity and if they have continuity they are good. There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

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1 Answer

Hello Karen. The element should get red hot. However, it should cycle on and off when the unit is running. The model number will have to be verified on the units I.D. tag since the one listed came up invalid. This will be necessary to look up and specific parts such as the one you requested. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter. We will need your model number to help you with this. Please call 1-877-477-7278 or post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

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1 Answer

Hello Scott. Yes, the element glows red when it gets hot. As long as the housing is installed properly, it should be fine.

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1 Answer

Scott, Yes, it's pretty much "normal" to see a glow from the inlet duct grille when the heater is energized and the door is opened.

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1 Answer

Hello Ziggy, This can be caused by the thermal cutout 279816 (includes the high limit thermostat WP3977767), the cycling thermostat WP3387134, the heating element 279838, the motor (centrifugal switch) 279827, the timer WP3976580, or the associated wiring.You should use a test meter to determine the failed component.

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