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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282771
Manufacturer Part Number: 279838

Restore full heat and end long dry cycles - install the Whirlpool OEM Dryer Heating Element.

Why this heating element?

  • Factory-spec 5400 W / 240 V heating element with nickel-chromium coil - built by Whirlpool to Whirlpool OEM standards.
  • Broad compatibility: fits Whirlpool, Kenmore 110-series, Roper, Estate, Amana, Maytag & more 27-inch dryers.
  • Built to last: high-temp terminals & mica insulation resist fatigue and hotspots.

Fixes these common dryer problems

Problem How the element solves it
No heat / cold drum Replaces burned-out coil to restore heating circuit
Takes forever to dry Full wattage brings drum back to target temperature
Stops mid-cycle Prevents over-cycling caused by faulty element
Burning smell New coil eliminates hot-spot arcing & insulation burn


DIY install — about 20 minutes

  1. Unplug dryer and remove back panel to access heater housing.
  2. Disconnect wires; remove housing screws and slide assembly out.
  3. Swap old element for new, re-use hi-limit thermostat if still good.
  4. Re-assemble, run test cycle - enjoy fast, even drying.

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$53.95
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part Number: OEM9282771)

1 Answer

Linda Jean, You will want to check the thermostats to make sure that they have continuity. If there is no continuity then the thermostat is faulty and would need replaced. If they do have continuity then There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

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1 Answer

Becky, You will want to check the thermal fuse and thermostats for continuity. If there are any of them that do not have continuity then they are defective and would need replaced. If this checks ok then the issue would likely be caused by a bad centrifugal switch on the motor since the unit continues to run.

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1 Answer

Kellie, While the heating element could be the issue there are some other things that you will want to check first. Test the thermal fuse and the high limit thermostat which are located on the side of the heater housing and see if they have continuity. If they do not then this will be the issue. If they check ok then There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

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1 Answer

Jeff, Unless the element is physically broken then you can test it for resistance but normally a bad element will be broken.

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1 Answer

Pat, With the timer cycling past the off position and going to the next cycle then this would be a issue with the timer on the unit.

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1 Answer

Karen, You will want to check the venting to the outside of your home which would be the most likely cause for the unit to take so long to dry. The other thing would be a bad cycling thermostat which is part number WP3387134.

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1 Answer

Betty, In the case that there is only one wire going to the element, there would normally be a thermostat that is attached to the other terminal in which the wires go to the thermal fuse then to the thermostat and then the thermostat connects to it. If it is set up like this then it would work. If there is absolutely nothing attached to the other terminal then it would not work.

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