General Electric Parts

I replaced all 4 suspension rods and springs and now it spins very smooth. They weren't broken, just badly worn. It gave new life to my 15 year old GE Profile washer. They are basically springs, so they wear after a while. It was well worth the hour I spent fixing it. You need a good long reach to get to the back 2 and you have to take off the dampening straps and the control panel so you can gain access. All in all, I'm happy with the repair, although I though that these parts are bit... Read more

I replaced the Timer knob components. Removing the cover that contains the Timer was simpler than I anticipated. Just remove the screws on the top of the back of the machine. Hold the cover and lift up and push to the left (facing the front of the washer). Removed the Timer Knob Clip with small needle-nose pliers. Grasped the Timer and turned counterclockwise to remove and unplugged the wiring clip. The timer is seated to the cover and held securely in place with one screw. I seated the new... Read more

Replaced door lock. It required removing the two screws around the lock, pulling the spring hoop wire from around the door gasket, and then disconnecting the two wire terminals from the lock. Reverse with the new part. After cracking open the old lock the failure was caused by a thin plastic tab breaking off. I also bought the door switch since it's cheap - just in case the problem was not the lock. But the door lock was the fix. Read more

Replaced sump and related pieces. Also replaced door baffles that were getting bad. The hardest part of job was removing the dishwasher from the its spot in cabinets. The info on site made replacing parts easy. Read more

• Element will not heat

Ordered a new terminal block kit from Appliance Parts Pros. Shipping was lightening fast. Slapped the new part on my stove and its never worked better. Thanksgiving was saved! I'd replace the rest of my stove's terminal blocks if they weren't $50 a piece...sheesh! Read more

GE Microwave/Convection Oven. Removed case (carefully). Tested in-line power cord fuse with multi-meter. Fuse was good. Noticed a scorch mark on a wire connected to the oven cavity thermal fuse. The fuse appeared to have been overheated from too much movement in it's mount. Removed part from unit and used number on the part to order a new one. Installed new part, re-assembled, and unit works fine. Read more

Easy fix. Both elements replaced while I was at it, so all new. Figured if one went the other was going to follow. CIRCUIT BREAKER OFF. Removed the back metal panel with my nut driver for the hex head screws. Note where the panel may slip under tabs for support. Remove slip on electrical connections on upper and lower elements. May need a pliers. (I did not want to just pull the element and the wires into the oven with the element and remove them there, like a technician would do. After 15... Read more

New seal. Read more

Our GE was installed about 8 years ago and was AWESOME for much of its early life. However, progressively its cleaning ability diminished. By replacing all the spray arms (clogged with debris), filters, drain hose, and sump...this dishwasher cleans like it did when it was new! Cost was around $100 (also replaced a wheel and the silverware basket) and labor was relatively simple. And to think...my mother-in-law said, "Wouldn't it just be easier to buy a new one?!?". Read more

First I ordered a new ice door seal, spring, and crank, figuring the condensation in freezer and door was caused by ice door not sealing. Turns out the solenoid for the ice door was completely rusted and was the primary cause, if it had been replaced early, it would have saved the dispenser board. What then happened was the moisture in the freezer door damaged the control board rendering dispenser controls inoperative as well as the heater around the dispenser. Now the freezer door is dripping... Read more

TALKED TO YOUR REPRESENTATIVE AND WE WENT THROUGH ALL THE ON/OFF AND LIMIT SWITCHS. NARROWED IT DOWN TO TWO SWITCHS. THE ON/OFF SWITCH AND THE LIMIT SWITCH ON THE DOWN CYCLE SIDE. REPLACED ON/OFF AND DETERMINED THAT THAT WAS NOT THE ISSUE. THEN UNCOVERED LIMIT SWITCHS AND REPLACE DOWN SWITCH, FIXING THE PROBLEM Read more

Motor control board was flashing 4 times, indicating that the mode shifter had an error. I disconnected the mode shifter's wire from the controller and measured the resistance between the 2 leads with an ohmmeter. Since the reading was infinite, that meant that the mode shifter coil or in-line thermal sensor was electrically open, i.e. bad. As this fix is near a complete tear-down of the washing machine, here are a few tips I discovered. 1) the hub nut is difficult to remove and you need a... Read more

While trying to fix the problem I broke the knob. Appliance Parts Pros.com had the part delivered in 2 days! After looking at the video I decided there was a poor ground at burner #1. Removal of burner confirmed my suspicion. Years of use “spills” has insulated the burner from a good ground, thus preventing a good spark. Removal of black residue cleared the problem. I am now in the process of cleaning the remaining 4 burners just to be sure. Read more

Ordered replacement part, it shipped really fast. Part was exactly the right thing. Unscrewed 2 screws and pulled some slack out the wires. Disconnected the wire clips. Repeated steps to put in new part. Worked like a charm! Read more

Replaced lid switch and lid magnet. Took just a little longer then 20 minutes as I had to splice in the new lid switch as it wasn't one that was a clip in, it was hard wired in. Read more