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Customer Questions and Answers for Inlet Thermal Fuse by Frigidaire

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Frigidaire
Part Number: OEM13106226
Manufacturer Part Number: 137032600

The Inlet Thermal Fuse is an OEM part for Frigidaire laundry centers. It serves as a safety device to prevent the washer from overheating by cutting off electrical power if the temperature exceeds safe levels.

Causes of a bad inlet thermal fuse can include electrical issues such as short circuits, prolonged exposure to high temperatures, or wear and tear from regular use.

Symptoms of a bad inlet thermal fuse include:

  • The washer not starting or stopping mid-cycle
  • No power to the washer, even when plugged in
  • Error codes indicating thermal issues
  • The washer overheating during operation

This OEM replacement is also compatible with Electrolux, Gibson, Kelvinator, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Frigidaire Inlet Thermal Fuse (Part Number: OEM13106226)

1 Answer

Uncle Ernie, the coils would not stop the igniter from receiving voltage. However, if the control is sending voltage to the heating circuit when testing from wire to ground, the thermal limiter 137032600 and the flame sensor 5303281135 would need to be tested for continuity. If both have continuity, the motor 8581341966035 would be the cause of failure.

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1 Answer

Carlos, with the power cord unplugged, it is recommended that the heating element 3937010 is tested for continuity to ground. If the element is grounded, it can cause overheating and also cause the wires to overheat and char. Another possibility for the wires charring would be a loose wire connection to the terminals.

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1 Answer

Hello Allen, The most important part of the dryer isn't even part of the dryer. If the ducting is restricted, the moisture is trapped inside the dryer and is blown past the drum seals and is recirculated back across the clothes. This will cause a long dry time and in extreme cases, it will cause the dryer to simply heat the wet clothes with no drying actually taking place. Check the exhaust ducting in the home before working on the dryer. Use only non-flexible ducting and use duct tape to connect the sections. It should be as short and straight as possible and if the ducting exceeds the equivalent of 25 feet, you may need to add an auxiliary duct fan. (Each 90° turn equals 6 feet of straight ducting).

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Todd for Model Number Frigidaire Affinity Model # FASE7021NW2 clothes dryer

I have replaced the heating element in my dryer Frigidaire Affinity FASE7021NW2 2 times now and it's out again error code E64. I have checked both the Limit Part #8 and the Thermostat part #33 for continuity and both check fine. When I remove the heating element it appears that it has been getting very hot. Is it possible that one of these is not opening the circuit when it gets hot? Any thoughts before I order another element? I have checked the vent pipe and duct work and all is clean. Thanks

1 Answer

Todd, This issue would most likely be caused by a thermostat that is faulty or the control board relay for the heater is stuck and would need replaced.

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1 Answer

Wayne, Check the voltage at the terminal block where your power comes in for 240 vac. Check that the belt has not broke, the thermal fuse has continuity and the door switch is good and not damaged. Those are the first things to check i believe you have a tech sheet in the lid of the unit also that might put you into a diagnostic to see if any error codes come up.

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1 Answer

David, It is not common for the inlet thermal fuse to fail but can happen if it was weak. You will also want to make sure that the hi limit thermostat is good.

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1 Answer

Candice, For this issue of the unit staying on even powered off will be caused by a bad control board for the unit which is part number 137070850NH.

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Tim for Model Number CAQE7001LW0

The dryer wouldn't shut off even after power was disconnected. When the breaker was switched back on the dryer would start again immediately. While testing the door switch I shorted it out causing a few sparks. I turned off the power checked that all was safe, but now the dryer won't power up at all. Is there an internal fuse that I may have blown? I do not have power at any of the wires connected to the switch. Doing a continuity test on the switch - Common to tab closest to top, I have a closed circuit when I depress the plunger, let it off the circuit opens. Testing the two tabs stacked, I have continuity when connected and none when plunger is depressed. So, it appears that the door switch is OK. Is there an internal fuse that I may have blown or have I possibly blown the dryer control board? Thanks

1 Answer

Shawn, With the igniter not glowing then it could be a bad thermal fuse or thermostat so will want to check for continuity on these parts. If they check ok then test to see if there is 120 vac coming from the control board to the igniter. If there is then the ignter would most likely be the issue. If there is not then the issue would be the control board.

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2 Answers

Shawn, It is possible that the thermal fuse is faulty and you can test it for continuity. Continuity will indicate that the part is good. If it is good then the issue will be either the motor or the control board. You will want to check to make sure that the control board is sending power to the igniter. If there is power then the motor would be the issue.

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