Skip to Content
  • time delivery images 2 Day Quick Delivery!
  • box-refresh images 365 Day Return Policy!
  • lovely images 15 million satisfied customers
  • boxes images Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock
  • headphone imagesFree Tech Support!
  • google images Google Trusted Store

Customer Questions and Answers for Oven Bake Igniter by Ge

Sale
Best Seller
Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM6061716
Manufacturer Part Number: WB13K21

The Oven Igniter is an OEM replacement part for GE ovens, designed to ignite the bake igniter to start the heating process. This part is responsible for creating the spark that ignites the gas, providing the heat needed to cook and bake food. Over time, the oven igniter can wear out or become damaged, which can prevent the oven from heating.

Symptoms of a bad Oven Igniter include:

  • The oven not heating up at all.
  • The oven taking longer than normal to heat.
  • Gas smell in the oven due to gas being released without ignition.
  • A clicking sound without the oven igniting.

Causes of a bad igniter can include normal wear and tear over time, exposure to excessive heat or moisture, or physical damage from impact or mishandling.

This OEM GE part can also be used on Hotpoint, RCA, and Kenmore/Sears appliances. 

IMPORTANT: The connector plug may need to be cut off and igniter wires connected to range wires using porcelain wire connectors.

More
$55.77
Compare At:
$98.14
You Save:
$42.37

IN STOCK
Ships Monday Guaranteed
Add to Cart

Questions & Answers

For Ge Oven Bake Igniter (Part Number: OEM6061716)

1 Answer

Nat, This issue may have something to do with the cooling blower motor or the motor wiring. Here is what you will need to do to check it. 1. Cycle power to range. Press and hold ‘3’, ‘1’, and ‘0’ simultaneously for three seconds to enter Fault Retrieval Mode. Fault code F350 or F352 will likely be displayed. This indicates the ERC has detected that the cooling fan blower wheel is not turning, or is turning too slowly. 2. Enter the ERC’s Test Mode by pressing and holding ‘1’ and ‘5’ for three seconds. Pulse the cooling blower at low speed by pressing ‘0’. If the blower wheel, which is visible through the vent trim at the rear of the maintop, fails to turn, service is required. 3. DISCONNECT POWER. (LOTO) Remove • Grates and top burners • Rear spacer-to-wall trim • RJ45 connector from a square hole in the upper corner of rear wire cover with a flat screwdriver • Backguard complement strip and upper rear wire cover • Vent trim • Maintop • Fan motor spill guard to access the motor’s electrical connections. 4. Check for foreign objects in the blower wheel. The wheel should rotate freely by hand without noise or undue friction. Be sure nothing is pressing against the red hub on the end opposite the motor. Re-route any wires, such as the RJ45 connector leads, that may be lying in contact with the motor shaft. 5. Visually check wire connections to the low-speed (black wire) and high-speed (Red Wire) tabs of the blower motor. Check the connection to the Neutral (white wire tab. Make sure the gray plastic 6-pin connector is fully engaged. 6. Power up range. Check for blower operation again using the Test mode. If the blower now operates, look for insulation pushing up on the blower that would cause binding when fully assembled. 7. Press '3' again, if still no operation check for line voltage between the low speed (black wire) and neutral tabs. Also, check for line voltage at the ERC between J903 Pin 3 and Neutral. If line voltage is not present, Disconnect Power and replace the overlay and Control Assembly. If line voltage is present then the blower will need to be replaced.

Read More...

1 Answer

DALE, Based on the information provided I would check the safety valve for 3.2 to 3.6 volts. If not in range then replace the valve.

Read More...

1 Answer

Al, based on the information provided, it sounds like the igniter WB13K21 is weak and would need to be replaced. This can be verified by testing the safety valve for a voltage reading between 3.2 to 3.6 VAC. If the voltage is not within this range within 60 seconds of a bake cycle being started, the igniter has failed.

Read More...
Eric for Model Number GE JGSS065BEA2BB

I think I installed the oven ignitor backwards, wires back but 2 screws through the flat lip instead of the rounded lip with 2 holes. The ignitor is a couple of inches away from the gas pipes with holes. Although the ignitor does change to yellow color when activated, no broiler tube flames unless manually lit. My plan is to remove and reinstall the ignitor. Luckily I have a photo of the old one before removal and it appears the ignitor nearly hugs the broiler flame tube.

1 Answer

Eric, You will want to try to readjust the igniter and see if that takes care of the issue. Also, check to make sure that the burner does not have any issues with corrosion around the ports.

Read More...

1 Answer

Gary, it would be recommended that the burner tubes are cleaned thoroughly. It is common for the jets near the ignitor to get clogged up which will cause the gas to build up before the igniter can ignite the gas.

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Stovey, You should cut off the connectors and use ceramic wire nuts TJMA01164-1 to connect the wires together. You will need to strip about 1/4 inch of insulation from the ends of the wires and hold them beside one another without twisting them together. Let the wire nuts twist the wires or the stainless steel wires will break off. The reason I recommend this is because the manufacturers have determined that the connectors cause as many failures from loss of continuity as are caused by failed ignitors. The ceramic wire nuts eliminate this problem. Do not use any electrical tape on the wire nuts since the heat from the burner will make the whole house stink of burning tape.

Read More...

1 Answer

JR, The connector burning up, this would be caused by a loose connection. You would want to make sure that there is a firm connection when you install the new part.

Read More...

1 Answer

Patel, it would be recommended that the gas supply valve is turned off and the back of the range accessed. With the range set to bake, the igniter WB2X9154 would need to be tested for 120VAC from incoming wire to outgoing wire with a meter. If there is 120VAC, the igniter has failed and would need to be replaced. If there is not 120VAC, then the voltage would need to be tested from one of the wires to ground chassis. If there is not 120VAC, either there is a broken wire or the main control WB27K10143 failed. If there is 120VAC using the last test, then it would be likely that the oven safety valve WB19K14 has failed.

Read More...

Have questions? Ask our pros!

Contact us in a way that is convenient for you

Call us 1-877-477-7278
Need Help? Chat with a Pro
Or ask a question by filling in the form

Share your thoughts with other customers

Ask a Question
  • boxes images Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock
  • time delivery images 2 Day Quick Delivery!
  • box-refresh images 365 Day Return Policy!
  • headphone imagesFree Tech Support!
  • google images Google Trusted Store