Richard November 14, 2012 for Model Number RS2545SH We have had this refrigerator for about 4 years and a few months ago it started leaking water in the bottlom of the refrigerator side. When I pulled all the shelves out I noticed that there was ice forming all along the back and inside behind everything. I tried removing the ice with a hair dryer but now everything in the bottom too trays freezes. My guess is there is some type of fan that is not working properly. Since then we bought a new refrigerator. I was curious to what caused the issue with our old refrigerator so from the inside I took apart some of the back panel and discovered a fan. It does not appear that this fan is working. Is it possible to order this part so I can keep my old refrigerator?
1 Answer Hello Richard. Try it now and see if the fan comes on. If so, the ice had the fan stopped and you will require a sealed system repair to the unit. If not, and there is power to the fan motor, replace the fan motor. If there is no power, replace the main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Gonzalo September 21, 2012 for Model Number RS2545SH How can test the sensor to see if it working? Thank you.
1 Answer Hi. Which Sensor are you referring to exactly? There are 3 different ones that ohm out to 10,000 ohms or better. If it out of the 5% tolerance then it needs replaced. Thank you. Read More...
Lillian August 30, 2012 for Model Number Rs267 (I think) We noticed that our refrigerator wasn't cold as it should be (the display was showing 34°F but it was much warmer than that). We decided to take out the back panel and everything seemed fine, except the fan that was not spinning. Now, we turned the refrigerator on again, without the back panel and fan, to see if the unit would work. The unit is getting cold, but the temperature display shows that the temperature inside is 50°F since last night (it was showing 60°F at first, then after about 2 hours it displayed 54°F, and then today, after pressing the "Power Cool" option, it cooled down to 50°F, and has been this way since then). Do you think the problem is just the fan motor or is it something else? Is the fridge not getting colder because the fan is not running? The freezer is working fine. Thanks and I'll be waiting for your answer.
1 Answer Hello Lillian, I believe if the fan motor DA31-00020E is replaced that the unit will return to normal operation. Read More...
Mike June 30, 2012 for Model Number RS2545SH My refrigerator is making a loud sound like the motor might be going out. It sounds like maybe the fan is rubbing against something. It stops when you open the door and will then start up again. The noise is intermittent. Should I replace the motor and fan?
1 Answer Hello Mike. Check and make sure there is no ice build up causing the fan to hit something. If all is clear and the motor is noisy, you will need to replace the fan motor DA31-00020E. Read More...
Greg June 20, 2012 for Model Number rs253baww fridge was workin fine. then we noticed fridge side was warming up to 50 or so. freezer side seems to be fine. i took the freezer back panel off to see if it was frosted up. its not. but the fan in the removable panel was not moving. is this normal or do i have a bad fan? thanks
1 Answer Greg, Your refrigerator has "dual" evaporators and fans. You'll need to remove the refrigerator back wall and check the fan motor DA31-00002S and thermistor DA32-00006B and connections, If the fridge is that warm, the fan should be running, unless the thermistor is faulty. Thanks Read More...
Sean May 12, 2012 for Model Number RS2534vq I purchased a new freezer evap motor after my freezer's temperature started to rise and I confirmed the old motor was not working. After installation the temperature dropped to 1 degree, though it took about 6 hours to do so. After that, it started to rise again and is holding steady at 32 for the past few days. I took the cover off and tested the new fan to verify it is still working. The coils have ice on the bottom of them, could this be the reason the temp has started to rise again? If so, would taking a hair dry to it be a workable solution or would it lead to other issues? A picture of the coils can be seen here: https://www.betterourtomorrow.com/freezer/freezer_pic.jpg . Any help is appreciated.
1 Answer Hi Sean. Yes if you have abnormal frost on the coils it block proper air flow and decreases cavity temperatures drastically. A typical no cool. This involves testing and replacing the defrost thermostat part # DA47-10160H which should naturally read closed (0-ohms) in frozen temperatures. Check at the board terminals Freezer Def Heater between CN70 (13) and CN70(7) .The heater part # DA59-00233H has 2,600 ohms resistance and not open. The evaporator thermistor part # DA32-10105R has at room temperature of 77.0° and 1.667 volts dc, w/5.000 ohms. At 32° you need 13.290 ohms, at 2.853vdc. If this is out of value by 5% it needs replaced as well. You need to make sure the defrost thermostat receives 120 vac when the control board part DA41-00134F defrost cycle in time. Thank You. Read More...
Tom May 02, 2012 for Model Number RS2545SH Hi, Here's you another question. The cover styrofoam, is it important? If I were to change the evaporator assembly and put the cover back on with part of the styrofoam missing will it cause the evaporator to freeze up again? Because when I took the cover out the styrofoam had already been ripped out due to the fact that it was glued to the ice build-ups. Thanks!
1 Answer Hello Tom, The insulation is very important. If the temperatures are not regulated throughout the unit, you cannot predict where items will freeze or thaw. Look at it this way: It would be cheaper for the manufacturer to leave the insulation out, so if it's there, it has to be necessary. Read More...
Tom May 01, 2012 for Model Number RS2545SH Hi, my fridge is freezing up on the evaporator and temperature would rise. I have also notice weird noises when the fridge is closed and once I open it I can hear a sound sort of like a "cawk cawk cawk" like the fan struggling. Is the fan causing the problem? Is the part im looking for AP4136543? Also I notice when I removed the cover, the styrofoam on the side of the cover got ripped off, is that a problem as well? Also, once I blow dry the evaporator my fridge would work for 5 days then it acts up again. If I were to replace the Evaporator assy, do I have to replace the whole thing and deal with the sealed system? I really don't want to get a tech to install as it will cost too much for a fridge i'm planning to keep for just one more year. Is there a easier way to resolve this issue besides replacing the whole evaporator assy? Perhaps just the heating assy? Thanks!
1 Answer Hello Tom. You can separate the heater assembly and sensors from the evaporator DA96-00020Q and just install it, but you must be careful and not get cut or bust the evaporator. If the foam is not damaged to bad, you should be ok. If it is, the foam has been discontinued for this model. Read More...
Jeff February 23, 2012 for Model Number RM255LASH I have a Samsung Refrigerator Model: RM255LASH. There is a loud fan noise coming from the freezer side in back of the Ice maker. It stops when you open either the main freezer door or refrigerator door. The freezer does not seem to be freezing like normal. Food at the top was starting to get soft and the water in the ice tray is not freezing completely. The noise is loudest when freezer door is open and you hold the door button in. I can hear it in back of ice maker. Was looking at the following part: Motor Part Number: AP4136543. Is this what I need? If so do I access it from inside the refrigerator in back of Ice maker assembly?
1 Answer Hi Jeff. Your fan part # DA31-00020E may not be the issue. From the sounds of all, you have a defrost issue. The evaporator coils heave completely blocked w/ice and the fan is overworking to keep cavity temperatures satisfied. The defrost thermostat sensor part # DA32-10105G should remain normally closed in the frozen temperatures so it can pass the 120 vac to the defrost heater part # DA97-03153W. It only comes w/ the evaporator assy. It will be available on Mar. 5-15th. You can use the new heater and place it on the original coils so you do not need a complete sealed system repair just to use the new heater. Use a volt/ohm meter part # MA-DM1 to assist yourself in diagnostics. Make sure the inside cover styrofoam seals perfectly so the air flow will be normal. It needs to completely seal against the back wall the full circumference. Thank You. Read More...
Jeff R. February 22, 2012 for Model Number RM255LASH Having issue with noise coming from a Fan, sounds like it is coming from the freezer side in back of the Ice Maker assembly. You hear it running and when you open the door it winds down. If I hold the door button in it will start up and is louder than with it closed. I can hear it from both the refrig side or the freezer side, but it is louder on the freezer side. As of last nite the temp seem to have dropped in the freezer. Top stuff is soft and the ICE is not freezing. the bottom freezer drawer is cold and food is frozen. Not sure what part I need and how to access it. Thanks
1 Answer Hi Jeff. Your fan part # DA31-00020E may not be the issue. From the sounds of all, you have a defrost issue. The evaporator coils heave completely blocked w/ice and the fan is overworking to keep cavity temperatures satisfied. The defrost thermostat sensor part # DA32-10105G should remain normally closed in the frozen temperatures so it can pass the 120 vac to the defrost heater part # DA97-03153W. It only comes w/ the evaporator assy. It will be available on Mar. 5-15th. You can use the new heater and place it on the original coils so you do not need a complete sealed system repair just to use the new heater. Use a volt/ohm meter part # MA-DM1 to assist yourself in diagnostics. Make sure the inside cover styrofoam seals perfectly so the air flow will be normal. It needs to completely seal against the back wall the full circumference. Thank You. Read More...