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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Defrost Thermal Fuse Assembly by Samsung

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Samsung
Part Number: OEM12408153
Manufacturer Part Number: DA47-00095E

The Refrigerator Defrost Thermal Fuse Assembly is essential for maintaining the optimal performance of your Samsung refrigerator. This genuine OEM part plays a crucial role in the defrost system, ensuring that the freezer and refrigerator compartments remain at the correct temperatures. By regulating the defrost cycle, it helps prevent overheating and potential damage to your appliance. Compatible with a wide range of Samsung refrigerator models, this thermal fuse assembly guarantees a secure fit and reliable operation. Installing the genuine OEM Refrigerator Defrost Thermal Fuse Assembly means you can trust the quality and longevity of your refrigerator's defrost system, enhancing overall efficiency and extending the life of your appliance. Whether you're replacing a faulty fuse or upgrading your refrigerator's components, this genuine Samsung part provides the dependable performance you need for a smoothly running kitchen.

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Questions & Answers

For Samsung Refrigerator Defrost Thermal Fuse Assembly (Part Number: OEM12408153)

Mikew for Model Number RB195BSBB

Can you tell me what the normal continuity for a thermal fuse is in this model? Mine is reading a short which sounds correct/good to me. Symptoms, the evaporator is an ice block and struggles to get to any operating temp 8 degrees and below. Can't do it. The thermal temp gauge for the freezer is good at 5.5k ohms, I believe. The defrost temp sense is at 13.25 k ohms as it sits encased in ice yet. The other connection has open leads, I'm not certain what this goes to yet but perhaps the heater?

1 Answer

MikeW, Thanks for the question!!! Yes, the thermal fuse should have continuity. The defrost temp sensor is reading 13.25k which equals 32 degrees F, making it the likely issue. In the freezer incased in ice should be well below 32 F. The part number is DA32-10105R.

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1 Answer

John, based on the information provided, this unit has a defrost drain clog. The refrigerator evaporator defrost tray and the freezer defrost tray would need to be accessed and the drain ports cleared using hot tap water. The ice maker in the freezer will not make ice unless the freezer is less than 1°F, and this temperature would not be reached if the defrost drain is causing ice build-up on the evaporator coil in the freezer.

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1 Answer

Mark, With the refrigerator section fluctuating in temperature it would be recommended to check the refrigerator sensor and the evaporator sensor. At room temperature the resistance will be 5K ohms of resistance. If it is off then the replace the sensor.

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Paula for Model Number RB1844SW/XAA

My Samsung fridge needs to be unplugged and plugged back in to kick it back on to cool. It works great for about 4 hours but when I wake up in the morning and unplug it and plug it back in the temperature is in the 50s for the fridge and 30s for the freezer. It’ll cool back down and need to be reset again. I have replaced the temperature sensor. That didn’t fix it. I replaced DA32-00006W and now the thermal fuse. Am I on the right track here? Is there any other part it may be?

1 Answer

Hello Paula, if the ref is not running and the internal temps are rising and unplug/replug turns the ref back on and it cools down again, then what you are doing is resetting the main control board which should not be necessary, the main control board is part DA41-00128D.

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1 Answer

Albert, it would be recommended that the ice maker fill tube is inspected for an ice blockage. If there is an ice block, it would need to be cleared and the water valve DA62-02360B replaced. If there is not an ice block, the temperature of the freezer would need to be tested using a thermometer. If the temperature is not below 5°F, the ice maker will not make ice properly. If the temperature is good, the test/reset button on the ice maker can be pressed to identify if it will start a harvest. If the harvest mode starts, the water valve would need to be tested for 120VAC. If the valve receives 120VAC but water does not go into the ice maker, the valve has failed.

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1 Answer

Rajeev, if the model number of this appliance could be provided in a new inquiry, this will allow for the most accurate information to be presented. Generally, a hi-limit bi-metal can fail if the defrost heater is overheating continuously.

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1 Answer

Betty, the defrost heater DA47-00244U will need to be tested for resistance and it should measure 120O. If it does not measure 120O of resistance, then it would need to be replaced. From there, with the defrost sensor DA32-10104N at 50°F it should measure 8.87KO of resistance, at 32°F it should measure 13.29O, at 14°F should measure 20.42KO.

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1 Answer

Michael, fuses, and thermistors don't usually make a clicking noise unless they "burn out" and fail. The clicking noise and poor cooling are most likely due to a faulty control board and /or a weak overload/relay on the compressor. You will need to access the back of the refrigerator, remove the lower compartment cover and isolate, determine where the clicking noise is from.

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