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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Temperature Selector Switch (4-Position) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18025131
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3399640

This dryer temperature selector switch lets you choose between four heat settings for proper fabric care. Replacing a worn switch restores accurate temperature selection so loads dry evenly without overdrying delicate items.

  • Controls the dryer's heat level across four selectable settings
  • Faulty switch can cause incorrect temperatures or only one setting to work
  • May lead to poor drying performance or fabric damage if not functioning
  • Restores reliable temperature selection and consistent drying results
What's included: One 4-position temperature selector switch Install notes:
  • Unplug dryer before servicing; shut off gas if applicable
  • Pull control knob straight off to access the switch
  • Transfer wires one at a time to the new switch to maintain correct positions
  • Ensure switch shaft and flat align with the knob during reassembly

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Temperature Selector Switch (4-Position) (Part Number: OEM18025131)

1 Answer

Todd, Remove the vent from behind the dryer and see if the flame stays lit. You could have a venting issue causing the unit to short cycle.

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1 Answer

David, Based on the information provided the heat circuit goes through the selector switch, so if it is open then it would not apply power to the heater.

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1 Answer

Hello Nicholas, Showing continuity does not tell you at what temperature the thermostat opens. If it has been thermally stressed, it may be opening at too low a temperature and not closing soon enough, creating a cool dry condition. The dryer exhaust that runs through the home should be checked for a full 4-inch diameter opening all the way to outside atmosphere.

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Nicholas for Model Number WED5560SQ0

I think something is up with my dryer Whirlpool model #wed5560sq0. It's not heating. I checked all the components and wires and they all have continuity. There's good airflow going throughout the machine and I even pulled the dryer away from the wall with the hose still on and it's flowing fine and out the apartment. Plus the lint trap was clean before starting the load. The last thing I did was thought it was the temperature selector switch. The high setting was not getting continuity on the high setting for 10K ohms, so I rigged a resistor of 10K ohms and attached it to the selector switch terminals on the timer to make the dryer think it's the selector switch after I've took the real one off and set it to the side. The clothes are still damp after I've run it for 60 - 70 minutes. Is something wrong with the components, even though all, including the heating element is fitting their continuity and have continuity? Or is there something else wrong that won't let my dryer dry completely for a full 60 minutes?

1 Answer

Nicholas, i would pull the dryer out and away from the wall, remove the dryer vent and run a load of clothes or towels to see if it makes any difference as to the length of time it takes to dry the load, this way you can eliminate or confirm the vent system. If it still takes a long time, with a empty drum, check air temperature at the exhaust behind the dryer, you need to see about 160 degrees, if the temps are not hot enough, replace the cycling thermostat located by the blower housing, part number is WP3387134

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Nicholas

I read your last message. Thanks for the lint trap for my Whirlpool model #WED5560SQ0. The bias heater? Is that on the operating thermostat? Because of what you said about the heater getting bypassed on the thermostat it sounds as if that's what gives the dryer selector switch, model # WP3399640, it's high setting resistance. Is that true? Because we thought there was another resistor inside the selector switch to give the high setting. All our wires on the thermostat and thermostat heater, bias heater, are working fine and got continuity, by the way, including the wires on the selector's wire harness to the timer.

1 Answer

Nicolas, the cycling thermostat has a built in heater that adds a small amount of heat to the thermostat when it is in a delicate or low heat setting. This makes the thermostat open up a little quicker to turn the heater off, thus allowing the heat to stay at a lower temperature. It is also referred to as a bias heater.

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Nicholas for Model Number WPW10717210

Question about the lint trap for my whirlpool model #WED5560SQ0. It fills up halfway after a regular 60 minute dry cycle, then I have to dry the clothes for like another 50 minutes to dry the load completely and the lint trap fills up completely. Is a full lint trap mean dry load complete? And does a half full lint trap have got something to do with the dryer selector switch not having continuity on high setting? And finally what's the resistance on the high setting under 10K ohms?

1 Answer

Nicholas, Lint accumulates on the filter as the articles dry, it also depends on the type of articles, cotton(towels, t shirts, etc. produce more lint than polyesters or man made materials. If it takes 2 hours to dry a load, you need to check the exhaust vent pipe and vent hood, it should take 45 to 60 minutes to properly dry a standard size, mixed load. The temp. selector switch has little or nothing to do with the lint filter, it controls the temperature in the drum. You should read 10 ohms resistance across the terminals when the switch is set at the lowest setting, and 10k ohms across the terminals on the highest setting(+/- 10%) On the low/med. heat setting power is applied to the bias heater inside the operating thermostat, this causes the thermostat contacts to open"early" and reduces the temperature. On the highest setting, the bias heater is bypassed and the thermostat opens and closes at the preset temperature( approx. 150-160 dgrs.F.) At this point, it sounds like you have a clogged or kinked exhaust vent or vent hood or the overall length of the system is too long. Make sure you're not overloading the dryer.

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1 Answer

Nicholas, Yes, wires 1-6 are to the motor. 1 and 2 are going thru the centrifugal switch to the heater. TM is the timer and refers to a specific switch on the timer. And the double line break simply supplies voltage to more than one line on a setting instead of having 10 wires to the timer.

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1 Answer

Nicholas, You would need to check the wiring diagram and see which terminals go to which setting whether no heat, high, med, low. Then you would set to that setting and test the switch for continuity.

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1 Answer

Hello Nicholas, the switch should read 5100 ohms on the pins that are separate from each other; the pins closest to each other should give you 910 ohms. Make sure you are getting 240v to the heater, you could be losing 120v that comes through the motor switch. Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Nicholas, Yes the dryer would still run when set to the heavy/high load even though there is not continuity, it would just cause it not to heat.

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