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Customer Questions and Answers for Washer Drive Block by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18026517
Manufacturer Part Number: WP389140

Washer won't spin or agitate? A worn drive block often causes spinning failure. This connects the transmission to the tub. Moderately difficult repair.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Washer Drive Block (Part Number: OEM18026517)

Washerrattleswhenspinning for Model Number GSQ9669LW1

My 8 year old top load Whirlpool washer makes a machine gun firing noises when it spins. At first I thought it was because of unbalanced load, so I rearranged the clothes in the basket. But it still made the rattling. On the second load, the same thing. Then I emptied the basket and let it spin. I heard one or two such rattles and it continued to spin as it does normally. Then I lifted the lid and at that point I believe the motor already stopped but the basket was still spinning and that was when the washer started to rattle like crazy until it stopped spinning. Then I searched the symptom on the Internet. Many believed that this is caused by the worn-out drive block. So I took out the drive block. I can't tell if it is worn out or not, but I can tell it's very loose on the driving shaft. I could have placed an order on a drive block, but I really I wanted to make sure that the problem was caused by a bad drive block, so please help diagnose the problem. Thanks!

1 Answer

Hello. Based on the information you provided, the drive block WP389140 is bad and will need to be replaced in the unit. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Chris. If the motor just hums during spin, and the motor turns freely by hand, you will need to replace the timer 3952518 in the unit. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Sungwon. Check and see if the drive block WP389140 is worn and bad in the unit. If so, it will cause the problems you are having. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello David. Not likely, it sounds like the drive block WP389140 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hi Jermaine. The issue is that you need to isolate the motor from the transmission and see if it will run one direction w/ the reg. wash cycle. If it does then put the timer in spin and watch the motor reverse4 direction and run this direction. If you hear a hum from the motor in either cycle, then you know that the timer is OK and sending the voltage to the motor assy. This also tells you @ the wires going to the motor and good connections.; If you do not hear anything, then use a volt meter and see if the voltage is there on the windings per your supplied wiring diagram behind the timer. Then pull the agitator and see if the drive block under the hub nut is broken part # WP389140. The spanner nut (tub nut) is part # WP21366 if you need this as well. Thank You.

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Melinda for Model Number lsc9000pw0

Does the drive block & spanner nut do anything other than support/hold & stabilize the inner basket on the brake drive tube? It seems like the brake/drive tube is slipping down somewhat so the white piece coming down (which the clutch connects with to spin) is actually sitting on the clutch housing. what keeps the brake drive tube in place when the thing is spinning if not the drive block? It doesn't actually put weight on the clutch, does it?

1 Answer

Hello Melinda. Yes, the drive block WP389140 has two slots int he top that hook into the drive tube. Then when the basket is placed on the block, and locked down with the nut, the drive block drives the basket assembly during the spin cycle. If the slots are bad, you will need to replace the block. Hope this helps.

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Joel for Model Number 110.22996100

My washer started have an intermittent issue about an year ago and sometimes didn't spin at all. I could just open the lid rotated the inside basket clockwise a bit and it'd return to normal. Lately this problem get worse and happen all the time. With my 'fix' it could not get close dry completely. I had to reduce load to get it going. I opened it up and replaced motor coupler, it was good but I bought the replacement, so I replaced it anyway. Off course, it didn't fix my problem. Should I replace the clutch and or the block next?

1 Answer

Chuck, With the motor and pump removed, try and turn the transmission coupler in both directions, it may be stiff and a little hard to turn in the counter clockwise direction(spin) but you should be able to turn the coupler in both directions if the transmission is OK, also with the motor disconnected, and with the harness attached you can put the timer in the spin selection and see if the motor runs, just be very careful. Good Luck and Thanks

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1 Answer

Hello Sam. Disconnect the power to the unit. Remove the two screws in the back corners of the control panel securing the control panel. Pull the control panel forward and flip it backwards. Next unplug the lid switch and remove the two brass colored clips securing the cabinet to the back wall using a flat blade screwdriver to pry them out. Pull on the front of the cabinet and slide the cabinet off the frame of the washer. Once removed, you will remove the tub ring and the agitator out of the inner tub. Then remove the nut and inner bracket out of the washer. You can now access and replace the drive block WP389140. Reinstall in reverse order. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello TS YWCA. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the clutch assembly WP8299642 is bad and will need to be replaced. Check and make sure the drive block WP389140 is not broke. If not, you will need to replace the clutch. Hope this helps.

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