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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282741
Manufacturer Part Number: 279816

This dryer thermal cut-off kit is an authentic OEM replacement part for Whirlpool and Kenmore dryers. It is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating.

This Kit Includes:

  • High Limit Thermostat (250°F Limit)
  • A Cut Off Fuse (309°F Limit)
  • Female Spade Terminals
  • Jumper Wires

Over time, these components can fail due to electrical issues, lint buildup blocking the exhaust vent, or normal wear and tear. A malfunctioning thermal cut-off kit can result in overheating, which can pose a safety hazard and affect the dryer’s performance.

Symptoms of a bad Thermal Cut-Off Kit include:

  • Dryer not heating
  • Dryer overheating
  • Dryer shutting off mid-cycle
  • No response when attempting to start the dryer

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit (Part Number: OEM9282741)

1 Answer

Blane T., pull the dryer out and take the back cover off. Down next to the exhaust vent is a white thermal fuse with 2 blue wires, remove one of the blue wires and check the fuse for continuity, if it reads open, replace the fuse. Check your vent for obstructions, poor venting is a common cause for a thermal fuse to open.

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1 Answer

Pete, the dryer thermal cut-off kit [279816] utilizes the two cut offs on an electric heating element. For your model, there is the high limit thermostat [3403140] located on the intake vent, but you will also have the operating thermostat [WP3387134] on the blower housing next to the thermal fuse [WP3392519].

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1 Answer

P.Powell, The W11050897 / W11050897 thermal cutoff/hi limit switch is located on the inlet flue to the rear bulkhead. You will need to remove the rear cover panel on the back of the cabinet. The WP3392519 3392519 Fuse, Thermal and WP3387134 / 3387134 Thermostat,Internal-Bias, are located on the blower housing. All the thermal components should have "closed" circuits at room temperature. Thanks,

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1 Answer

Tim, You would use one of the terminals that came in the thermal cutoff kit on the orange wire which should then be able to be attached,

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1 Answer

Tony, you need to check the thermal fuse located on the blower housing, you should be able to check it for continuity. If it is open, replace it and check for a restricted vent, poor airflow is a common problem when it trips a thermal fuse.

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1 Answer

Peggy, That's the recommendation from the manufacturer. We do always advise to replace all parts that come in a kit,

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Doc for Model Number Whirlpool

The saga continues....got all the parts: thermal cutoff and thermostat kit, the main button relay switch and the door switch; all have been replaced and with dryer plugged in I can hear the ticking of the timer/settings assembly, but the dryer still will not come on and the light does not light in the dryer when door is opened. I have checked all connections (marked them carefully in terms of position, etc.) and the proper orientation/installation from the excellent APP videos and still nothing. Checked wiring, etc. What is my next step in terms of what component might be out? I am still confused a bit on the missing orange wire on the thermostat....I connected the new wire from the KIT from the bottom terminal to the heater ceramic block to complete the circuit which I am assuming is correct. Please help! Company coming in two days....Thanks...Doc

1 Answer

Doc, We will need your model number to help you find the right parts for your unit. Please post another question with all your info included thank you.

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Doc Clay for Model Number Whirlpool

Hello....I ordered a few repair parts for our Whirlpool dryer; I was watching the replacement video for the Dryer Thermal Cutoff kit and everything looks straightforward EXCEPT...that our dryer does NOT have the orange wire for the newer type lower thermostat. It has ONLY two wires, one at the top of the thermostat and one attached to a ceramic block; the left-most post for attaching what must have been the orange wire does NOT have a wire connected...it has always been open, and there is no orange wire coming from the wiring loom.... SO....do I simply attach the new RED wire that is part of the kit between the lower thermostat terminal and the open terminal on the ceramic block that has never had a connection? Thanks

1 Answer

Doc, you will take the red jumper wire that is provided in the kit and attach one side to the element, the other end goes to the new high llimit. The red wire that comes form the thermal fuse will then go the other side of the new high limit. You do not have to cut or adapt anything for this to work.

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1 Answer

Scott, Since there is no orange wire you would just put the jumper wire from the thermostat to the heater and just ignore the orange wire part of the video.

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