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Customer Questions and Answers for Heater Element (240V) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18072591
Manufacturer Part Number: WPY313538

The Heater Element is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool electric dryers. The element provides heat for drying cycles. 240 Volts

Causes of a faulty heater element can include normal wear of internal coils and insulation from repetitive heating. Over-drying of heavy or bulky loads may potentially overwork the element prematurely.

Symptoms of a bad heater element include:

  • Inconsistent or excessively long dry times due to inadequate heat
  • Damage to other internal components from overwork during compensation
  • Risks arise as insulation deteriorates potentially exposing live current

This is a genuine Whirlpool OEM replacement this part is also compatible with Maytag, Jenn-Air and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Heater Element (240V) (Part Number: OEM18072591)

Earl for Model Number LDE313

My heating element was "Open" on my LDE313 dryer, so I ordered a 240 VAC replacement, part # Y313538. When re-threading the element I found I was about 4 inches short of connecting to the end terminal. I have been in the electrical trade for 40 years + and know not to stretch Nichrome coils. I have it strung fairly tight and am reluctant to install it any tighter. Could you advise me of what the length this coil should be "out of package" or suggest how taught I am allowed to install this. I looked at a picture of an "In stock, on the shelf" heater assembly and the coils were slightly relaxed as I understand they should be. My concerns are that this is the wrong coil in the Y313538 package or the coil missed being "pre-stretched. In either case, fire could be an issue. Thank You

1 Answer

Hello Earl. The manufacturer does not offer the length of the element. When installing these, I like to start at the mid-point of the heating element and string it through the ceramic ferrule in the middle of the heater element assembly. Then begin working your way to the ends, threading the element through the ceramic ferrules, crossing the assembly, and eventually ending up at the brass terminals. Most of the time it doesn't quite reach. Again, starting at the middle, spread the heating coils a little bit at a time by pulling on the element using two hands, all along the way to the end until you have increased the length so it can reach the brass nuts. Remember a little goes a long ways so keep checking for the proper length needed. There should be some tension on the element as it is threaded through all the ferrules. If it is loose then that is where you will have problems. The element could touch the housing and short out. Be sure and take your time and do not rush the job. Hope this helps.

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Larry for Model Number DE303

Hello. I ordered a replacement heating element for my Maytag dryer from you. There were two elements offered for that dryer one was 240 volts and the other was I believe 208 or 204 volts. When I received the new part I measured it and the old element that I removed was a little over 12 inches longer than the new one which was the 240 volt model. My dryer is rated at 240 volts. I do not want to install the new one and damage it if it is the wrong one. I could not find any length or measurements in the illustration on your website. Any input would be helpful. Thanks

1 Answer

Hello Diane. If the unit is heating, It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.

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1 Answer

Hello Dan. You will disconnect the power. Remove the front panel by removing the screws and pull forward and off the unit. Next remove the element from the unit and split the housing and restring the element.

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1 Answer

Hello Lynn. Check and make sure you have 240 volts coming to the dryer. Check and make sure the unit is not set to Air Fluff. Also check the heater and thermostats and see if they are good. Check the vent on the unit as well for clogs and kinks. You can test these with a multi-meter MA-DM1. They should read closed for continuity. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Tony, First remove power tio the dryer. "1. Remove front panel(remove two(2) phillips head screws and carefully pull the panel out at the bottom, label and disconnect the wires to the door switch, and set the panel asisde. 2.Remove screws holding the heater cone shield to the base.Remove shield from the dryer. 3. Remove screw in front of the cone, holding the cone to the dryer base and remove the screw in back of the cone holding cone tab to inlet air duct. 4. Remove and label wires to terminal posts and thermostat. 5. Remove cone from dryer. 1. Remove heat cone. 2. Remove four screws holding cone halves together and lay halves side by side. 3. Remove nuts from insulators holding ends of element. 4. Using pliers, squeeze and straighten insulator clips and push clips out of heater cone halves.Thread insulators off of original element. 5. Inspect insulators, replace any that are damaged. 6. Drop insulators over new element(there are 17). 7. Place looped ends of new element over terminal studs and replace nuts. (Don't overtighten, you may crack insulator). 8. Reinsert insulator clips and secure by twisting tabs with pliers. Maintain slight tension on the element as clips are reinstalled. 9. Be very careful when installing new element so the element is hot stretched. If you come up short or long on element at the end, go back and readjust the element from the beginning. Do not stretch the last part of the element to fit. Check for cracked insulators. Any that are damaged should be replaced. 10. Be sure element does not touch insulators. Also make sure the electrical connections are tight. Reverse procedure, and tetst dryer for operation."

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1 Answer

Hello TB. You will need to test the thermostat and cycling thermostat to see why the unit is heating all the time and not cycling. Mkae sure the vent is clear and not kinked first. If the vent is good, test the cycling thermostat WP307249 and the hi limit WP303396. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello Bill. You will need to check and see if there is a loose wire or if the element WPY313538 is bad in the unit. It sounds like a loose or broken wire in the unit. Hope this helps.

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