Acacia C April 12, 2025 for Model Number KSSC42QTS03 Our fridge and freezer stopped working - and when it did it threw the breaker in the panel box. I reset the breaker and it worked for another few hours. Then the same thing happened, and I reset the breaker again and it worked for an hour but not it tripped the breaker a third time and it will not come back on. I check the physical condition of the casing for the inverter board and it is burnt and smells electrically burnt. could this cause the circuit breaker to trip? also is it possible the compressor is bad also? If the compressor is also bad would it trip the breaker also?
1 Answer Acacia, Thank you for your question. While it is a possibility that the compressor has failed along with the inverter board, the only way to determine this would be to test the compressor windings. Go across the run and the start and it should have a resistance that should match going from run to common + start to common. Read More...
Ken November 18, 2024 for Model Number KSSC48QTS02 Unit stopped cooling, unplugged for a couple weeks until I had time to look at it. I cleaned the condenser area to ensure airflow and open the panel and cleaned inside of there. Powered on and the fan motor comes on for the coils but the compressor doesn’t seem to kick on. Inverter box has green light that flashes 3 times continuously. Checked the inverter box and has 120VAC come out of the black and white wires. Red and white ones have 5.6-5.9 VDC output. Is this push more towards the control panel or is there something else I should check? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Ken, thank you for contacting Appliance Parts Pros. That 3-blink code on the inverter [W10629033] indicates an inverter failure and that it needs to be replaced. The voltages you are seeing are actually inputs to the inverter instead of outputs. Read More...
Nader May 06, 2024 for Model Number wrs586fldm01 Hi I have a whirlpool wrs586fldm01 and the inverter board burned out. I replaced the inverter, but the new board only flashes a green light 3x. I check the incoming voltage and all is normal. The inverter is NOT outputting power, though. I looked in the manual for the inverter and there is nothing about 3 green flashes. It only describes 1, 2, and 4 blinks.
1 Answer Nader, Based on the information provided, check for 120vac into the inverter on red & white and 4-12vdc on red and black. If you have these then it is likely the compressor that is your issue. It could be the main board if you do not have the 4-12vdc. Read More...
Chuck September 12, 2021 for Model Number GC5THEXNS01 The compressor fan cycles on and off every few seconds. Would that be due to a bad compressor limit switch? Is so, what is the part number I need to order for my refrigerator?
1 Answer Chuck, the condenser fan motor W10124096 would need to be tested for voltage. If the fan is receiving a continuous 120VAC, it would need to be replaced. If it is not, the failure would be in the main control W10219463. Unfortunately, if the control has failed, it has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available. Read More...
Bryan February 09, 2021 for Model Number KSSC48QTS03 I shut the unit off on the control panel because it was making noise. I removed the evaporator panel to check fan. When I went to power back up the control panel comes on briefly and then goes off. You can hear the evaporator fan and compressor start but then all shuts off. Can you direct me to where I can look because power doesn't stay on from the control panel? Thank you!
1 Answer Bryan, There are internal components failing on the control board and the only repair is replacing the control board. There is a new kit from Kitchenaid that replaces the old board. It comes with multiple control boards with the harness and mounting included. W10789107 Read More...
Jonpe January 09, 2021 for Model Number GC5SHEXNSO5 2007 whirlpool gold counter side by side Stopped cooling freezer and refrigerator ice melted etc. Cleaned very dirty condenser coils and Reset by unplugging. Works fine making ice and keeps temps at 0 and 37 f for 2 days then begins to warm again. Diagnostics run shows a “2” for compressor fan failure and “2” for the compressor as well on several runs. However, after it sits a day restarting it I hear the compressor fan click on /off several times for less than 20 seconds then works fine again temps go down to normal for 2 days, and the warms again. So it’s basically intermittent failure over 2-day cycles? Could this be the compressor limit or start relay? Invertor? Not sure what part to test next or begin to replace.
1 Answer Jonpe, it would be recommended that the condenser fan motor is tested for 120VAC when it is clicking on and off. If it is constantly receiving voltage, the fan W10124096 has failed and would need to be replaced. If it does not receive constant voltage, the main control W10219463 has failed. Unfortunately, the main control has been discontinued and is no longer available. Read More...
Phil August 12, 2019 for Model Number KSCS25FTMS02 My Kitchen Aid fridge {KSCS25FTMS02} started out like the others I read. in troubleshooting. Making strange noise and the refrigerator side was getting warm. So I did a thorough cleaning, check both fans they were not obstructed and seemed to be spinning free by hand. So I ordered the Condenser Motor Kit (AP4318657) replaced it. The noise went away. While I was working on it I went and changed the Defrost Thermostat (AP6017375) to make sure that wasn't it either. Now jumps right on: Compressor running, Condenser Fan running fine, freezer dropping temp. As expected, but fridge side temp not cooling down enough. Digital temp controls inside are accurate, verified with a different temp gauge. NOW WHAT? Big Mack
1 Answer Phil, you may want to test the air baffle WP2220377 to ensure that it is opening to allow airflow and you may want to check the air return vent for any clogs or blockages. If the damper does not open, or the air return is blocked up, this can prevent air circulation throughout the unit causing the refrigerator to not cool properly. If there is air coming from the baffle in the back when the freezer door is open, but not when the freezer door is closed, there is a blockage either in the evaporator section or with the air return. If air flow is not present at the baffle either way, then either the fan is not operating or the baffle is not opening. Read More...
Douglas C L January 25, 2019 for Model Number KSSC42FTS03 We had a whole house power surge which took out everything electronic that was plugged in, our fridge lights go on when door is open and red light is blinking on interior header panel. Which part do we need to replace please?
1 Answer Douglas, This issue would most likely be caused by a faulty control board W10219462. Read More...
Tom December 11, 2018 for Model Number KSSC42QMS00 Fridge and freezer not getting cold. Compressor and fans are running. Diagnostics says all is good. Checked inverter box voltages: 119AC and 3.6DC. Checked compressor voltage at 230AC which is what it is rated. Check windings resistance at 6.3Ohms for all pairings. Is 6.3Ohms correct or it should be 9-10Ohms? Don't know what else could be the issue. Any suggestions? Thanks.
1 Answer Tom, all the numbers you have given me are good, 6-7 ohms between all the pins on the compressor is normal. Based on what you have told me, you may have a sealed system leak. If the freezer temps were normal and the refrid. was high, I would lean toward air flow or defrost issues. With both sides being above normal and the compressor and all fans are running, you probably will need a sealed system repair. Read More...
Tom December 09, 2018 for Model Number KSSC42QMS00 Fridge not cold anymore (both freezer and fridge side). Coincidentally or maybe not, happens after power outage during the night and power came back on after a few hours. Over temp light flashes. I checked condenser and evaporator fans and they are running. I don't hear the compressor kicking in. Reading the stories, sounds like the inverter box. Does this sound about right? Can you email me the info on where to measure the voltages to the inverter box? I believe for my model, it should be W10629033. Thank you!
1 Answer Tom, Yes, it sounds like an inverter issue. Check the black and white wires going to the inverter for 120 vac and the red and white wires for 3.6 vac. If these voltages are correct then test the three pins on the compressor for 6-7 ohms between any two. If all these tests pass replace the inverter. Read More...