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Customer Questions and Answers for Drive Motor (Three-Speed) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18024180
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3352287

This three-speed drive motor powers the wash and spin functions in select top-load washers. Replace it to restore proper agitation and spin when the original motor is weak, seized, humming, or not running.

  • Drives the washer's drive system to agitate and spin
  • Provides three selectable speeds as commanded by the timer/control
  • Common failure symptoms: no agitate or spin, humming/buzzing, burning smell, or stopping mid-cycle and restarting after cooling
What's included: One three-speed drive motor. Install notes:
  • Disconnect power and turn off water before servicing
  • Ensure the drive system turns freely (pump and drive components) to avoid overheating the new motor
  • Transfer and secure any mounting hardware and connect the wiring harness in the same orientation
  • Run a short test cycle empty to verify smooth, quiet operation

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Drive Motor (Three-Speed) (Part Number: OEM18024180)

Horace for Model Number 110.20722990

How can I TEST the motor when it's pulled out of the washer? I'm guessing I need to jumper the water level switch, and if in Spin Cycle, also the lid switch. Anything else I need to do? I'm trying to determine what is causing this washer to all of a sudden to not Spin. I've been told everything from "transmission" to "motor". Neither is an acceptable cost effective solution, and certainly don't want to throw out that kind of money ... just in finding out what is wrong with the washer's spin cycle.

1 Answer

Hello Horace. You just need to bypass the lid switch. It should spin in the timer is on in the spin cycle. As for the wires to test, Kenmore does not release that information. You will need to use the wiring diagram on the unit to test it.

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Keith for Model Number 110.26912691

I replaced the coupler drive and when I removed the motor the two wires on the motor start capacitor came off and I don't know which one goes where. One I guess is the power which comes from the panel and the other comes from the plastic connector from the motor and they are both the same color and size. I'm thinking it does not matter which connection on the capacitor they hook up to but I don't want to take a chance. Can you please help here? Keith

1 Answer

Keith, It does not matter which wire gets hooked up to each terminal on the capacitor.

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1 Answer

Hello Steven, Based on the information provided it sounds like the start winding on the motor is bad and motor would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Sailorred, You may want to start by checking the outlet wires and breaker in the box, Loose wire connections and or a weak breaker can cause such an issue. If you have access to a multi meter, you'll need to check voltage at the outlet for both static (no load) reading and a "load" (while the washer is running), You need to maintain a minimum voltage of 105 volts, under a load(especially when the motor starts in the spin cycle) We'd expect to see an amperage draw of 10 to 11 amps in agityate with a tub full of water, and a 10 to 11 amp draw until the tub reaches a high spin speed, after the drain cycle). You need to allow a 10% variable, and if the voltage remains in range (105 to 120 VAC) and the amp draw is reasonable(lower voltage causes higher amps) the most likely issue would be an electrical supply issue.

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1 Answer

T.L., A model number would have been great. But, No you won't need to replace the "capacitor looking device", usually. If there was an issue with the capacitor, it would normally be peetty visible(they usually blow up, or leak oil, if theres an issue). If the "small fin" on the base of the motor is the motor coupler 285753A, like we think it is, no you won't recieve it with the motor, you may want to consider orderring a replacement coupler as well. Thanks

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1 Answer

Joe, Here are the basic access information for your style washer, make sure you unplug the power cord first, " Servicing Components in the Console 1. Remove the two Phillips-head screws securing the front corners of the console to the washer top. the two screws could also be located on the back side of the end caps. 2. Tip the console back on the hinges that secure the top of the console to the washer back. ACCESSING COMPONENTS INSIDE THE WASHER CABINET Components inside the washer cabinet can be accessed by completely removing the outer cabinet as one unit. 1. Remove the console mounting screws and tilt the console into the service position. 2. Unplug the lid switch harness connector from the receptacle in the washer top. 3. Remove the cabinet mounting clips by placing the flat blade of a screwdriver in the clip and press down and towards the front to release the clip. 4. Remove the cabinet by tilting it forward and pulling it away from the washer. 5. The rear panel can be tilted back for additional access to components at rear of machine by twisting the rear panel support 90°. and then tilting the rear panel back." I think, that will get you into the cabinet, and you'll be able to check and diagnose the motor aand pump assembly, easily from there. But make sure you check the lid switch and wiring when you lift the control panel assembly. Thanks and Good Luck

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Greg for Model Number 110.26932691

I couldn't figure out how to attach a follow-up question to your response to my original question, so I'm starting this as a new question. Your answer to my last question was > Hello Greg. Yes, the grommets should face the motor AP2907254 and not the transmission I was actually asking about where the cardboard-like 'shield' between the motor and transmission should go (in relation to the grommets), not which way the grommets themselves go. (I see the grommets have two different sides, but I can tell which way they themselves go). Again, this is not the same shield as the one included with the motor that goes beneath it. There appears to be only two choices, with the orders of either A) Motor, Shield, grommets, transmission plate (what I did) or B) Motor, grommets, shield, transmission plate. Thanks; -Greg

1 Answer

Hello Greg. You should have the large side of the grommets facing the motor WP3352287. The order you have it installed, Motor, Shield, grommets, transmission plate is not correct. The order it goes is Motor, grommets, shield, and plate. Hope this helps.

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Greg for Model Number 110.26932691

Hi; I bought this motor for my Kenmore Direct-drive washer, and wanted to make sure I installed it correctly. Originally there was a 'cardboard' looking shield somewhere between the motor and the mounting plate attached to the transmission case, in the area of the coupler. (It has an electrical warning on it as it extends out behind the start capacitor on the side of the motor). This is a different shield than the cardboard-like one under the motor. There are four rubber grommets between the motor and the transmission mount plate. I just can't remember what side of the four rubber grommets this shield is supposed to be on. Is it supposed to be on the side of the grommets closer to the motor, or the side of the grommets closer to the transmission? I installed it with the shield between the motor and the grommets. My concern now is that if I did this wrong, it might be blocking air-flow that (maybe) is supposed to flowing out of the end of the motor. Can you tell me which side of the grommets (motor or transmission plate) this shield is supposed to be mounted? Does it matter? Is it even needed in this case? Thanks; -Greg

1 Answer

Hello Greg. Yes, the grommets should face the motor WP3352287 and not the transmission. It sounds like you have it installed correctly. Hope this helps.

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