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Customer Questions and Answers for Motor by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM17955459
Manufacturer Part Number: W10822635

The Motor is an OEM part for Whirlpool refrigerators. It drives the ice maker's mechanisms, enabling the production and dispensing of ice cubes.

Causes of a bad ice maker motor can include electrical faults, wear and tear from regular use, or damage from power surges.

Symptoms of a bad ice maker motor include:

  • Ice maker not producing ice
  • Unusual noises coming from the ice maker area
  • Ice cubes not being ejected properly
  • Motor not running at all

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Motor (Part Number: OEM17955459)

1 Answer

Richard, The wire harness is foamed into the door of the freezer and to replace entire harness you would have to replace the door W10179205.

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1 Answer

Hi. The IDI Motor wiring in the plug itself is # 1 pin = BR/WH. #2 is = RD/WH. #3 is = Not used. #4 is = not even there (the center open terminal). The #5 is = GRY. The #6 is = not used. The # 7 is = Blue. Looking at the Terminal connector itself, there is a flat top and the bottom 2-outer locating edges. Having said all this, the # 1 pin is the one on the right with the flat on the top and the rt. lower locater edge is facing you. So pin # 7 is on the Lt. and the pin # 1 is on the right. Then the connector only plugs onto the top of the motor. So it will be correct. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Mark, The auger motor operates on 115 DC volts. There should be 115 VAC across pin 3(blue) and pin 5(white) When you press the ice lever you should read 115 VDC across pin 6(pink/black) and pin 7(orange/blue). on the crushed ice selection pin 1(brown and white) across to pin 2(red/white) should have 115 VDC and cubed selection will have the same VDC on the same pins, when pressed. Don't forget to tape the freezer door switch down to conduct the voltage checks, and be very careful. The resistance of the motor circuit is in range, and the voltage test will confirm the operation of the switch assembly.

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1 Answer

Ray, Yes , there are drive couplers on the motor shaft and in the bottom of the ice bin WP2315559 and W11629923. the motor shaft is "spring loaded" so the couplings mesh together and drive the auger shaft. You do need to check and make sure the ice bin is installed and "locked' in place for the couplers to mesh properly. To access the auger motor, you will need to remove the two screws and coupling cover, On the freezer door liner you should find a removable panel in the bin compartment under the bin assembly, remove the two screws and panel, you'll have access to the motor. You will not need to remove the facade, or switch assembly.

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1 Answer

John, The wiring at the auger motor, based on your refference is: Pin 1 Brn/Wht, Pin 2 RD/Wht, Pin 3 not used, Pin 4 not used, Pin 5 Gray, Pin 6 not used, Pin 7 Blue. This should get you wired up and working, Thanks

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1 Answer

Hello Ramon, The problem is caused by condensation. The freezer compartment is either too cold or the ice door where the ice dispenses through the door is not sealing. You can check it with a flashlight. If light can pass, so can the air. The moisture from the room humidity will flow to the cold metal of the motor like a magnet and as soon as it condenses, it's in the freezer, so it will freeze. This is how the motor is stopping. If the moisture isn't getting in through the ice door, it has to be that the freezer is running below 0°F. This makes the room temperature water that fills the ice maker evaporate and it is also drawn to the metal parts of the motor. The motor does not need to be replaced. All you need to do is determine whether the freezer is below 0°F or the ice door is leaking air.

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Stealthmk for Model Number KSSC42QTS02 42" BUILT IN REFRIGERATOR

There is a sticker, but I am not sure what good it does me; the wires coming to the motor don't appear to be labeled, and I don't have a wiring schematic. On the old part, the wires were (going from right to left on the picture of the motor) black-white, red-white (outer pins), then nothing going to the inner pins, and then blue and grey on the other outside pins. Unfortunately, the grey and blue were the ones that were corroded, and I am not 100% sure on the order they should go in. Can you please help? If you know what the voltages that should be going to each pin are supposed to be, I can try to work it out based on that.

1 Answer

Hello Stealthmk. You had the order correct according to the model number you provided. Red/white, Brown/white, Blue then Grey is last on the unit. This is according to the diagram for the motor W10822635. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Stealthmk. The wiring colors varies by the different models of units. However, there is a sticker on the bottom of the motor W10822635 that shows the test points. Hope this helps.

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