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Customer Questions and Answers for Lid Switch by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18038235
Manufacturer Part Number: WP8318084

The Lid Switch is an OEM part for Whirlpool washing machines that is responsible for detecting whether the washing machine lid is closed before allowing the machine to start or continue a cycle. By preventing the washer from operating with an open lid, this switch helps to avoid potential spills or accidents, making it an essential safety feature. The lid switch is activated by the closing of the machine's lid, engaging the washing cycle only when secure closure is detected.

Symptoms of a failing Lid Switch include:

  • The washing machine not starting or completing a cycle
  • The washer not spinning or draining
  • The appliance operating only when the lid is pressed down manually

Causes of a bad Lid Switch can range from mechanical wear and tear to accidental damage, such as slamming the lid too hard or frequently, which can misalign or damage the switch mechanism. Additionally, corrosion caused by moisture or detergent residue can also impair the switch's function.

This OEM Whirlpool part can also be used on Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore/Sears brand appliances.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Lid Switch (Part Number: OEM18038235)

1 Answer

Good possibility, check the lid switch for continuity as well. This troubleshooting video may help as well: https://youtu.be/bPD7JjS12HQ

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Desperat-Ado for Model Number 110.26852501

Clothes are extra wet at end of cycle. Machine clicks loudly in Rinse/Spin cycle. So Originally we called sear service Tech because the button seemed to be slipping that is the main control that attaches to the timer. 2 seconds later they said everything was fine after they looked at it. A few days later clothes would end up soaking wet at the end of the wash cycle with no other symptoms. I would just manually put it on the spin cycle And let it manually dry fast and then turn it off. A few days later the machine starts clicking when it's in one of the spin cycles right around the time when it's doing a rents that followed the draining moment. So IOW It would drain the water and then following that it would start to add water and spin making a clack clack clack or click click click click click click sound until that cycle session ended. The machine agitates, the machine fills, the machine will do a high speed spin in the middle of the whole cycle. But it will do this crazy clicking in the middle of the whole cycle and it will also end the entire wash cycle with 5 minutes of clicking and the clothes will be wet because it does not get very fast and I can't change any of the knob speeds of the spin to adjust that speed of that Drumspinning. So after changing the Clutch, and the Coupling (which so many videos made it seem like THAT was the lack spinning issue I then saw talk about neutral drain and transmissions. So i.installed a new transmission. Now with everything changed except the motor, the timer and the lid switch its still clicking away loudly for minutes as it spins moderately. I cannot find my symptoms on youtube or online, atleast not yet. In my aggravation I've made several youtube recordings showing my symptoms https://youtu.be/khjYBSKOKFY https://youtu.be/q22c421aEXk https://youtu.be/qCuJqSZHchc https://youtu.be/uZPgYtgCGs4 Someone on YouTube recommend that I test out the motor by plugging in and incandescent light into the same it I'll let where the wash was connected. And to see if during the clicking if the light blinked dimly and brightly. And in fact that did happen which they said is showing that there's something going on with the motor is drawing power but we're not sure where it comes from if it's the timer or something else? Could somebody please help me narrow this down?? ??

1 Answer

Desperate-ado, Based on the information provided I would suggest you start by replacing the timer. The timer is not a serviceable item and the timer case looks to be cracked open a bit. WP8557393

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1 Answer

Eppie, You will want to check to see if the motor is getting 120 vac to it when the washer is done filling with water. If there is then check the motor coupler to make sure that it is not broken and check to make sure that the drain pump is turning properly.

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1 Answer

Suzy, Based on the model number provided the WP8318084 switch is not for your model, this is why you could not find it. The assembly for your model is part number W10404050 or our part number W10404050

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1 Answer

Richard, If the unit is not filling then check to see if there is any power to the water valve. If there is power then the issue will be a faulty valve. If there is not then this will be a faulty temp control WPW10248240.

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1 Answer

Maureen, As long as you can get the connectors out of the clip then you should be able to reuse the wires as long as there is not any damage to them.

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1 Answer

Angelle, the lid switch WP8318084 can be accessed by removing the console. This can be done using a putty knife to slide it under each endcap from the front to press in on a spring clip. While pressing in on the clip, that side can be slightly lifted and the other side would need the same done. From this point, the console will slide forward and up, exposing the lid switch on the left side.

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1 Answer

Dan, as the washer will drain, this lets us know that the motor is operating. It would be recommended that the basket drive W10820043 is inspected to identify if it is digging into the tub support 280184 excessively, potentially causing the brake to be unable to release during spin. Another thing that would need to be identified would be if the motor is pausing after draining as this allows the transmission 3360629 to shift from neutral into spin. If it is not pausing, this could be a failure in the timer WP8577787. If it does pause and the brake is not seizing up, the failure would be in the transmission not switching out of neutral.

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1 Answer

Hypperhound, based on the information provided, it sounds like the timer WP8557301 is not pausing the voltage supply to the motor to allow the neutral in the transmission to shift into gear so that it can spin the basket.

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1 Answer

Keith, there will be two blue wires on the timer WPW10199989 that would need to be tested for 120VAC when the timer is set to an agitation or spin. If there is not 120VAC at both, the timer has failed. If there is voltage, the next step would be to unplug the unit and inspect the drain pump for clogs, and the capacitor WP8572717 for signs of swelling or degrading. If the capacitor looks good, drain pump is clear, and the motor coupling 285753A is not worn or broken, it would be likely that the motor WP661600 has failed.

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