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Customer Questions and Answers for Water Level Pressure Switch by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM20943129
Manufacturer Part Number: W11417619

This water level pressure switch senses air pressure from the tub and signals the control to stop filling at the correct level. Replacing a weak or failed switch restores proper filling, helps prevent over/underfilling, and allows cycles to advance.

  • Monitors tub water level via the pressure hose and sends the level signal to the control
  • Stops water flow at the target level so wash, rinse, and spin can begin
  • Common symptoms of a failing switch: continuous filling, overfilling or underfilling, cycle won't advance past fill/sensing, or stops with water still in the tub
  • A cracked, kinked, or blocked pressure hose can mimic switch failure—inspect during diagnosis
What's included: 1 water level pressure switch Install notes:
  • Disconnect power and turn off water supply before servicing
  • Access the switch from the console/top or rear panel per your model; note wire orientation
  • Transfer and firmly seat the pressure hose; inspect it for kinks, cracks, or blockages and replace if damaged
  • After installation, run a fill test; some models may require a diagnostic calibration—see the tech sheet or user manual

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Water Level Pressure Switch (Part Number: OEM20943129)

1 Answer

David, The F20 error code is a representation that there is no water detected entering the machine. You will want to check the valves to make sure that the screens are not clogged. Also check to make sure that there is power going to the water valve. If the valve is getting power but no water coming in then the issue will be the water valve that is faulty. If there is no power then the issue will be the control board.

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1 Answer

Denis, The most likely cause for the unit not running water into the unit would be a faulty main control board since the water valve has already been replaced. If the issue were the pressure switch then the unit would agitate almost immediately.

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Mike for Model Number kenmore washing machine model 11047571601

First I got error F-21. I checked the drain pump and it was bad, so I replaced it. Now I I am getting error 5D and if I let it run it's course I get F-21. I checked the drain hoses, no blockage. I checked the check valve ball and it is free. I checked the pressure switch hose and it is clear, as well as blowing into the hose while it's attached to the switch and it is clicking. I unplugged all the connections to the control board and re-attached them. I have run no less then 8 rinse/spin cycles and express as well so if there was excessive soap residue it would be cleaned out. If I select rinse/drain/spin w/no spin, no second rinse it drains, quite quickly too. I am at whits end. Any suggestions?

1 Answer

Melissa, The F21 and the SD error codes would indicate an issue in the water level switch W11417619 or air tube W11252474 between the switch and the drain pump, since you've eliminated the drain pump and hoses as the possible problem. Disconnect the air tube from the water level switch, Blow in the end of the hose, check and make sure the hose isn't kinked or twisted, etc. Blowing into the hose will usually clear any sediment or debris that accumulated inside the air tube. If the F21 or SD issue persists, replace the water level switch.

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1 Answer

Hello Jake. Possible Causes/Procedure - Check if the home has low water pressure; open the water faucets. - Unplug washer or disconnect power. - Make sure that cold and hot valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way. - Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves. - Check all hoses for possible leaks. - Check if the customer used an after market “no flood” hose. This can sometimes stop the flow of water to the washer. - Make sure that wire harness connections from Inlet Valves (double and single), Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, & CCU (PR6, DP2, VCH7, and DI6 cavities connectors) are not broken or with wires detached, and that connector internal pins are visible. - Check the continuity between the following components: A. Inlet valve connectors (double and single)to the CCU (VCH7 and DI6 cavities) B. Drain Pump & CCU (DP2 cavity) connectors C. Pressure Switch & CCU (PR6 cavity) connectors. -If the continuity diagnosis failed, Main Harness must be replaced. - Check the resistance of the Inlet valve in each port of the valve (double & single). - Make continuity test to the Pressure SW. - Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub and pressure switch. - Check hose for possible leaks. Remove hose from pressure switch. Make sure that the open part where the hose is connected doesn’t have debris. - Check pressure switch operation. Remove pressure switch. Blowing air through the opening, the two internal switches are heard one by one. - Check for Suds. - Verify there is not a siphon problem. - Make sure that all the connectors are fully seated. - Plug in washer or reconnect power. - Verify the washer operation by running the Diagnostic Test cycle. - After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power and wait for 15 seconds.

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1 Answer

Hello William. The pressure switch is not tripped after 6 minutes. Water level is not reached within a specific time (EEPROM parameter). This error code is only shown in Diagnostic test. Possible Causes/Procedure - Check if the home has low water pressure; open the water faucets. - Unplug washer or disconnect power. - Make sure that cold and hot valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way. - Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves. - Check all hoses for possible leaks. - Check if the customer used an aftermarket “no flood” hose. This can sometimes stop the flow of water to the washer. - Make sure that wire harness connections from Inlet Valves (cold and hot), Drain Pump, Pressure Switch, & CCU (PR6, DP2 & VCH7 cavities connectors) are not broken or with wires detached, and that connector internal pins are visible. - Check the continuity between the following components: A. Inlet valve connectors (cold and hot) to the CCU (VCH7 cavity) B. Drain Pump & CCU (DP2 cavity) connectors C. Pressure Switch & CCU (PR6 cavity) connectors. - If the continuity diagnosis failed, Main Harness must be replaced. - Check the resistance of the Inlet valve in each port of the valve (cold & hot). - Make continuity test to the Pressure SW. See page 8. - Verify that the pressure switch hose is in good condition and properly connected to tub and pressure switch. - Check hose for possible leaks. Remove hose from pressure switch. Make sure that the open part where the hose is connected doesn’t have debris. - Check pressure switch operation. Remove pressure switch. Blowing air through the opening, the two internal switches are heard one by one. - Check for Suds. - Verify there is not a siphon problem. - Make sure that all the connectors are fully seated. - Plug in washer or reconnect power. - Verify the unit operation by running the Diagnostic Test cycle. See page 5. - After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power and wait for 15 seconds.

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1 Answer

Hello Shantelle, If the water won't shut off, there is a simple test you need to perform to determine what component is at fault. Start the unit and allow it to begin filling. Unplug the unit. If the water doesn't stop running in, the water valve has failed and will require replacement. If the water stops coming in, the issue is either a clogged pressure switch hose or the pressure switch has failed and will require replacement.

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