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Customer Questions and Answers for Thermistor by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18040551
Manufacturer Part Number: WP8577274

The Thermistor is an OEM part for Whirlpool brand dryers. It is a temperature-sensing resistor that monitors air temperature changes during the drying cycle. The thermistor provides feedback to the control board on heating element performance and internal air condition. 

Symptoms of a failed thermistor include:

  • Inaccurate temperature readings and selections  
  • Improper or incomplete drying
  • Safety issues from overheating due to lack of feedback
  • Error codes displayed on the control panel

Causes can be related to normal wear and environmental exposure over time. Failure prevents the dryer from achieving optimal drying conditions.

This OEM Whirlpool part can also be used on Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore/Sears brand appliances.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Thermistor (Part Number: OEM18040551)

1 Answer

Ed, The first thing that you will want to do is to check the venting to make sure that the vent is not clogged. Then also check the thermal fuse on the blower housing to make sure that it is has continuity. If it does not then replace the thermal fuse.

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Dave for Model Number GEW9200LW1

My whirlpool duet dryer model GEW9200LW1 wasn`t heating, so I put it in diagnostic mode. All of the lights light up red, except for the completed cycle light was green unlike the rest. After few seconds, it showed error code E2 saying the thermistor was shorted. So i replaced my thermistor, The dryer still doesn`t heat, and the cycle complete light still lights up green in the diagnostic mode, but the error code no longer comes up. I had previously checked the heating coil and it reads 10 ohms and the thermal fuse had continuity and 0 ohms. Can you help? Thanks,,,Dave

Jay for Model Number WED7800XW0

The dryer runs properly but does not heat. I've seen the L2 error code a couple of times but not consistent. My Exhaust Thermistor is measuring 12900 ohms. Is this within tolerance? Other info: in using the dryer's tech sheet, I've trouble shooted thru. The element, Inlet Thermistor, Thermal Cut-off and Thermal Fuse all have continuity (0 ohms). The diagnosis was to replace the Machine Control Board. I did that with no results. Thanks for your help! JM

1 Answer

Hello Jay, The L2 fault code does not pertain to the thermistor. It refers to a low voltage situation. L2 flashes if low line voltage (less than 50V) is detected at installation. ¦ Check to see if a household fuse has blown or a circuit breaker has tripped. ¦ Confirm the power cord is properly installed and plugged into the power outlet. ¦ Check the relay connections on the machine control electronics. You should perform tests as follows: This test is performed when one of the following situations occur: ? Dryer does not heat ? Heat will not shut off ? Display flashes L2 This test checks the components making up the heating circuit. The following items are part of this system: – Harness/connection – Heater relay – Thermal cut-off – Inlet thermistor/high limit thermostat – Heat element assembly – Centrifugal switch – Exhaust thermistor – Machine control electronics. – User interface assembly

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1 Answer

Mike, This issue could be caused by sensor bars that are coated with fabric softener if you are using the auto cycle. Clean the sensor bars with rubbing alcohol and then try again. If this corrects then that was issue. If not the sensor bars may need replaced. Also check the wiring to the sensor bars.

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Shawn for Model Number MED6400TQ0

We have had an issue with air flow faults for the past week. Cleaned out the vent, checked to see all is clear, then restarted. Sometimes it would clear other times you would have to move the dryer to run without the AF flashing fault. Now the dryer comes on and runs without heat. Could the thermistor at the fan be the issue? Have read multiple accounts about this, but not real clear. Side note, I replaced the heating element roughly 5-6 months ago as well and ran fine until recently. Thanks

1 Answer

Hello Shawn, I would check the blower wheel since I have found softener sheets inside it that prevent air flow. From there, the thermistors should be tested for their resistive values. If out of tolerance, replace the thermistor. If they test good, replace the control WPW10111616.

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Brent for Model Number Kenmore HE3t Dryer

Should the thermistor show continuity? I have tested other electrical components in the dryer and they all have continuity. My thermistor does not show any continuity. I ordered two new different Thermistors off of Amazon (ERP and Whirlpool) and none of them continuity and show 0 OHMs of resistance. I read some reviews where people received bad thermistors. Can anyone confirm if I should be showing some type of resistance? My symptons: My dryer is no longer heating at all and I keep getting Check Lint light before I start a load. It stopped heating all of a sudden. One day it was heating the next day it wasn't.

1 Answer

Hello Brent, The inlet thermistor and the outlet thermistor will normally have different resistance readings. It is impossible to tell what the thermistor reading will be without the model number from the units' I.D. tag. Since this is a Kenmore, we may still not be able to pull a wiring diagram or anything since sears likes to hide their information. I can tell you that when you set the meter to read resistance, if it is not an auto-ranging model, you will need to chose a high scale since it is common for the thermistor to have from 50K to 120K (50,000 to 120,000) ohms of resistance. If you need further assistance, please post the model number so we can give you sound assistance.

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1 Answer

Hello Dennis. If the thermal fuse is testing good, then there is no need to replace it.

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1 Answer

David, This issue would be caused by either a faulty control board, wiring harness between the control board and the user interface or the user interface since there are no lights on the control panel. Check the wiring harness connections first then if they check ok start with the main control board which is the most likely cause.

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