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Customer Questions and Answers for High Limit Thermostat by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18022596
Manufacturer Part Number: WP303395

The Whirlpool High Limit Thermostat is an OEM component for Whirlpool dryers, designed to prevent the dryer from overheating by shutting off the heat when the dryer reaches a certain temperature. This safety mechanism is crucial for preventing fires and maintaining the longevity of your dryer.

Symptoms of a bad High Limit Thermostat include:

  • Clothes taking longer than usual to dry
  • Dryer not producing any heat
  • Overheating of the dryer exterior

These issues may arise due to a malfunctioning thermostat, which can occur from a buildup of lint and debris blocking proper airflow, a faulty heating element that causes the dryer to overheat, or wear and tear over time.

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models, ensuring a wide range of applicability and reliability for maintaining your dryer's performance.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool High Limit Thermostat (Part Number: OEM18022596)

Tony for Model Number DG308

The gas flame is short cycling. The flame stays on for 5 seconds, burns with an acceptable colored flame then shuts off then repeats the process in about 1 minute. I have done the following: Cleaned all lint and residue from all ductwork and all components in the machine. Replaced the 3 gas valve coils(AP4008890), ignitor(304970), burner assembly(AP4044019)and blower wheel(303836). The flame sensor(AP2910747) & Hi-Limit Thermostat (AP4036956) tested good continuity. Checked all wires and connections for solid contact or damage. Operated the machine with the front panel installed to assure proper air flow. The problem remains the same. What would you recommend as my next step?

1 Answer

Hello Tony, Of course you should check the exhaust duct first since the temperature being held in the unit can cause the issue. Beyond this you should check the following in the following order: Gas available, igniter, radiant sensor, gas valve, hi-limit thermostat, regulating thermostat, temperature selector switch, timer, cycle selector switch, and the drive motor start switch. I know you already checked some of these in addition to changing some of these out. Obviously, the parts you have already changed are most likely not the issue. The others should have been checked in this order. One of these will be the issue. Let us know if we can assist you further.

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1 Answer

Red, it sounds more like you're replacing the multi temp regulating thermostat WP3387134 located on the blower housing with four wires attached. The high limit switch WP303395 is located on the combustion/burner cone 33001312 and has only two wires attached to it. Hopefully this will help you determine the correct part needed and you can re-order the correct component. Thanks

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1 Answer

Hello Dave, In this instance, I think I would replace the hi-limit thermostat WP303395 and the coil kit 279834. Check for loose connections and be extremely careful running the unit with the cabinet open as this changes the air flow through the unit and it will not cycle the thermostats the same as if the cabinet were closed.

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1 Answer

Hello John. Yes, based on the information you provided, if you by pass the thermostat WP303395 and the flame works, you will need to replace the thermostat. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Andrew. You will need to test the thermostat WP303395 and the flame sensor WP338906 and make sure they are good. They should read closed for continuity. Also, check the igniter 4391996 and make sure it is getting hot enough to light the gas. If all of this is good, replace the coils 279834. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter for the testing procedures. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello Jim. If you replaced the coils already, then the igniter could be the problem. If it is weak, the flame will ignite and then when it needs to reignite, the igniter does not get hot enough. If that is the case, you will need to replace the igniter 4391996. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hello Jim. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the coils 279834 are bad and will need to be replaced. With the flame only lasting for a few seconds, the primary and secondary coils are opening and releasing the gas for ignition. Then when the unit goes to switch, the coils are failing. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Hi Jim. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly. If your dryer is not heating , have you checked/ changed the flame senser part # WP338906. The high limit thermostat is part # WP338906. Thank you.

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1 Answer

Hello Steve. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like you will need to replace the flame sensor WP338906 and the coils 279834. Check the coils 279834 and see if they test good. You can test the coils using a multi-meter MA-DM1. The two prong coil will read 1,000-1,300 ohms, and the three prong coil will read 1,300-1,400 ohms across prongs 1&2, and 500-600 ohms across prongs 1&3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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Gil for Model Number DG612 Series 5 SN 252995VJ

To Recap my original problem was related to the lowcycling thermostat not letting the timer advance in the more/less mode (AP4290671) was replaced and the situation corrected. Now it has developed a problem with the flame staying lit long enough to get the dryer hot. I have replaced the main and secondary coils (AP3041625 and AP3041626), the flame sensor (AP2910747) and the flat style ignightor(AP3109449) with no improvement. the sequence is as follows 1.A coil energizes 2. the ignighter glows orange-yellow 3. the gas coil opens and the flame is on for a duration of approximately 10 seconds the first time then goes out. I hear what sounds like a reset click about 30 seconds after the flame went out. Then 30 more seconds later the cycle repeats only the flame stays on for just 5 seconds from there on out. I observed that the edge of the yellow gas flame is lightly washing over the igniter if that matters. When I jumper across the terminals on the highlimit thermostat the flame stays on until I remove the jumper. If i remove eather of the wire clips from the high limit thermostat the flame goes out. The only thing left unchanged is the high limit thermostat (AP4290671). I've checked all the connections and they're good. The only thing left to try based on other suggetions by your staff is to maybe swap the secondary coil again? Should I replace the high limit thermostat(AP4036956)? If so I may as well change the low cycling thermostat then everything will be new. Any suggetions, I'm stumped. I supose the high limit thermostat opens when it gets to hot(normally closed?) but should that happen so quickly? I think i'll button it all back up and try it with the front back on perhaps the flame shape is odd with the front off maybe? I grabbing at straws now. HELP!! Thanks in advance

1 Answer

Hello Gil. It sounds like the high limit thermostat WP303395 may be bad. Make sure the venting system is clear. If so, you will need to change the thermostat. Hope this helps.

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