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Customer Questions and Answers for Water Inlet Valve by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18057873
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10312696

The Water Inlet Valve is an OEM part for Whirlpool refrigerators. It controls the flow of water into the refrigerator for the icemaker and water dispenser, ensuring a consistent supply for ice production and chilled water.

Common causes of failure include sediment buildup, electrical issues, or damage from freezing. A malfunctioning valve can disrupt the water supply, affecting both the icemaker and water dispenser functions.

Symptoms of a bad Water Inlet Valve include:

  • No water or ice production
  • Slow filling of the ice tray or water dispenser
  • Leaks or puddles around the refrigerator
  • Unusual noises when the water dispenser is activated

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Water Inlet Valve (Part Number: OEM18057873)

1 Answer

Gregory, Yes, that is most likely the part that needs to be replaced. To test you can manually cycle the ice maker and make sure it sends 120 vac to the water valve solenoid for the ice maker. No voltage being sent to the valve as it cycles would mean ice maker needs to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hank, You will want to check to make sure that the switch is not sticking and if it is not then this would most likely be caused by a faulty water valve.

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Mike for Model Number MFI2665XEW6

Had an icemaker issue, the auger had a frozen block of ice in it so I cleaned it out. Then the next day water started pouring out of the icemaker door opening. Note that throughout all my testing noted below, the water in the door worked fine. So things I tried: I started pulling icemaker out and after disconnecting the harness, I noticed ice popped out of the tray. So I plugged it back in and heard the fan kick in but then smelled smoke and heard clicking so I disconnected it. After letting the icemaker dry out at room temp for a day, I decided to plug the harness in (outside of icemaker box). No smoke, but fan worked. So I put it back together thinking maybe some water caused the problem but it was fixed. But by next day, still no ice. Then I checked the inlet valve on back of fridge for continuity and it was ok. So I replaced the old icemaker with an extra I had purchased (4 years old but still in the box). Everything seemed to work (fan spun up on connection). Next day, no ice. Next I pulled both the old icemaker and new one apart to check the thermostat on the ice tray. The old one was all corroded so I figured that was the problem but I did not get continuity check on the pins in the new one, is that how you test them? So I then found your video on the icemaker tube and was able to disconnect and just blow through it to see if it was blocked, it was not. I also drained/shook out the filter since I didn't have a new one. The only thing I was not able to properly check was the "Valve Inlet AP6019288" because I could not figure out how to get the covers off the electrical harness. Then I put everything back together and noticed that the water coming out of the door worked a lot better (more flow) and figured maybe there was a kink in the tube or the filter was plugged so maybe I also fixed the ice maker water flow as well. But alas, a day later still no ice. So I was looking for any more ideas since I tried everything except: Spending $70 on yet another icemaker (since my spare looks good). Spending $60 on a new filter (because water flows just fine out to the water in door so I know it's working) Spending $70 on AP6019288 (because I don't know how to remove it) Thanks for any suggestions and apologize for the lengthy post. Just wanted to make sure you knew all the steps I had taken already.

1 Answer

Mike, you would want to check for voltage at the valve inside of the refrigerator section for voltage when the ice maker is put into a harvest mode. The valve should get 120V AC when the ice maker calls for water. If it does get 120V and doesn't send water through, then you have a bad valve. If it does not receive 120V, then either there is a broken/ loose wire or the ice maker that was installed is not calling for water and would have to be replaced.

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Chris Roelke for Model Number MFI2670XEW6

Yesterday I replaced my third ice maker in 8 months, as I am floundering as to solving the problem of small cubes (1/2") and infrequent 'cube making.' New dual valve 12/18, damper control 9/18, capacitor 9/18, lower freezer seal 8/18. I installed this NEW ICEMAKER and checked the quantity of water dispensed....in all cases (all 3 makers) it discharges exactly 1/3 cup of water? There is no freezing of water in tubes that I can determine. At one point, the second ice maker (5/18) was producing the correct size cube....as when this refer was new. However, the cubes were connected (too much water?) and I learned of a way to make them smaller....the adjustment screw. I did this and they were smaller, but maker stopped working correctly, hence I got another one. Same thing. This current one I have NOT adjusted and after plugging in, it immediately deposited 1/3 cup water. Moreover, I ran the harvest cycle..1/3 cup water. Clearly, something else is at work here.....ANY IDEAS? The first ice maker (4/15/18) came with two harnesses, I believed I used the correct one...plug-n-play. Ice maker: WPW10300024. THANK YOU!

1 Answer

Chris, According to the model the correct icemaker for this unit will be W10882923. You will want to make sure that the correct icemaker is installed as the wrong icemaker could be causing the issue.

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Chris for Model Number MFI26670XEW6

I just received this new part and checked the resistance. BROWN: 189.7 ohms and GREEN: 245.2 ohms. These numbers are a far cry from your numbers below. Am I missing something? These numbers above track with the previous two inlet valves I replaced. Water Inlet Valve WPW10312696. Hi, I'd like to know what the Ohm range is for THIS SPECIFIC valve. Thanks Chris ANSWER Chris, The brown solenoid should have a resistance of 411 ohms and the green should have a resistance of 720 ohms. Answered by AppliancePartsPros.com | Friday, December 7, 2018

1 Answer

Chris, You do not want to go by the resistance on the valve. If the valve is getting voltage it should send water. If it is not sending water and there is no blockage of the line then the valve is defective and would need replaced.

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1 Answer

Chris, The brown solenoid should have a resistance of 411 ohms and the green should have a resistance of 720 ohms.

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Roger for Model Number G16farxxy08

I installed a new filter and my ice maker quit working, installed new ice maker, new ele.board it's still not working.... the reason I didn't install a new inlet valve is that I checked it by taking the plug from door water to ice maker valve and it put water in ice maker. I assumed the valve was good. Could it still be the valve??? I'm so perplexed. the valve is wpw10312696 sub. for w10312696 We just don't know what else it could be... I have run through all the digital testing codes and ice maker test also and they were good, though maybe the new maker might have been bad. Please, do you have any ideas??? Is it the valve even though my test seem to work. thank you!!!

1 Answer

Roger, There has been a rework for your icemaker with new harness. Chances are you will need kit W10882923 but I have emailed you a service mode to check ice maker fill and cycle and fan test for the ice maker. Remember you need water power and cold temps to make ice. If the temp is not at 0 it will not cycle.

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1 Answer

Hello Bud. The valve is located inside the unit. You will need to remove the shelves in the unit. On the rear wall there are 4 to 6 slots that you need to stick a flat blade screwdriver into and release the tabs for that panel to come off. Once this is done you will have access to the water valve. Sorry we do not have a video at this time. We are working daily at adding new videos to our site. Thank you.

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1 Answer

Hello Gary. You will need to remove the shelves in the unit. On the rear wall there are 4 to 6 slots that you need to stick a flat blade screwdriver into and release the tabs for that panel to come off. Once this is done you will have access to the water valve.

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1 Answer

Michelle, you'll want to look at the fill tube fitted directly over the icemaker. If you can see water coming in, try disconnecting the fridge from the power outlet. If water stops coming in, you'll want to replace the icemaker part number W10882923. If the water continues to flow in, you'll need to replace the water inlet valve part number WPW10312696. Hope this helps!

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