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Customer Questions and Answers for Water Inlet Valve by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18067017
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10498990

The Water Inlet Valve is an OEM part for Whirlpool dishwashers. It is responsible for controlling the flow of water into the dishwasher during the fill cycles. This valve ensures that the dishwasher receives the correct amount of water needed for washing and rinsing dishes effectively.

You should replace the water inlet valve if it becomes faulty. Causes of a bad water inlet valve can include wear and tear from regular use, mineral buildup from hard water, or electrical issues. A malfunctioning valve can lead to improper water flow, affecting the dishwasher’s performance and potentially causing water leaks.

Symptoms of a bad water inlet valve include:

  • The dishwasher not filling with water or filling slowly
  • Water leaking from the valve area
  • Dishes not being cleaned properly due to insufficient water
  • The dishwasher making unusual noises during the fill cycle

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Water Inlet Valve (Part Number: OEM18067017)

1 Answer

Eugene, The 2 different sizes of tubing that are used on refrigerators would be 1/4" or a 5/16".

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Cb for Model Number GI6FARXXY08

I have been troubleshooting my refrigerator which has stopped making ice. I removed the ice maker and found a small buildup of ice near the filler. I replaced the ice maker and it has not yet begun making ice (maybe it will with the blockage gone). I tested the water inlet valve for continuity and it seems ok, but I guess this wouldn't detect a mechanical failure somewhere. Water is available at the dispenser. I'm considering defrosting just in case there is ice buildup in the ice maker supply line, but I'm not sure what part should be replaced if this doesn't work.

1 Answer

CB, Even though the water valve tested okay for continuity it has probably failed mechanically and is not sealing off completely allowing water to slowly come in. This would explain the ball of ice by the fill tube.

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1 Answer

Water Knowledge, based on the information provided, it sounds like there may be particulates coming through the pipes into the refrigerator. This can cause the filter to clog up quickly. The tubing going from the valve to the filter can be inspected to identify if there is any accumulation in the tubing that could be causing this, however.

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1 Answer

Eric, there will be a cover on the left-hand side that would need to be removed to expose the wire harness connections of the ice maker and auger assembly. Once removed, the wire connections would be disconnected and then there should be a little tab just under the icemaker on the left side that would need to be pulled away from the wall so that the ice maker and auger assembly can be pulled forward.

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1 Answer

Jim, if the water dispenser is operating properly now, the primary valve would not be an issue. It would be recommended that the ice maker fill tub is inspected for an ice blockage. If there is not an ice block, and the ice maker sends 120VAC to the secondary valve WPW10312696 at the end of a harvest, the valve would have failed.

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Jeff for Model Number GI6FDRXXY07, Whirlpool, French door model

Original problem was the dispenser motor was locked, presumably by an ice build up. I have not been using a lot of ice and this has occurred before. Typically I pull the motor/ice container assy out, break up the ice, dispose of the old ice, and all is well. This time, I could count not remove the assy. Between blowing warm up the ice chute and turning the refrig off for a few hours, assy came out. The ice was fused solid, as if liquid water had been poured in. I assumed this was due to melting from the heat of the hair dryer. I melted all the ice and put the assy back in. Several days later, still no ice. Water had been turned off prior to the tray removal but it was turned back on following re-installation. There is no water in the ice maker cells nor any water in the tray. Thus, the valve is not dispensing water to the ice maker. Drinking water does dispense, proving water is connected. So is the value not working? But if the value is the problem, why did the motor/ice container assy freeze shut? That should not have happened and has never happened. The appearance of the fused ice - it did not look like old ice cubes that sublime together, but as if caused by a flow of liquid water that she froze and locked up the motor. Was that due to the heat from the hair dryer or a defect in the ice maker controller that caused the value to stay open too long, thus overflowing and causing the old ice to fuse with new water? A day or two before this happened I do recall seeing a little water in the exterior tray. But if the controller was bad, after 4 days it has not acted up again. But could the water supply line (still) be frozen and thus that is hiding a controller problem? I have not pulled out the ice maker assembly. Might it simply be a bad controller card i can replace? The motor functions, but not idea which part or assembly of the entire ice maker might be bad. Thx

1 Answer

Hello Jeff, the ice maker controls the water valve for ice maker fill directly. Suggest you replace the ice maker W10882923 first as if it stalled it would power the water valve too long and overfill the mold, also usually the water valve WPW10312696 is replaced at the same time in case the coil was damaged by the faulty ice maker.

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1 Answer

Tony, For this issue, the defrost drain would be clogged and you would need to install a drain kit part number W10619951. You will also need to remove the rear cover of the freezer and clean the drain trough and flush the drain once the kit is installed.

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1 Answer

Thomas, If the ice maker is the only part using water on your unit then you can order part number WPW10498990. If your unit comes with a water dispenser you will need part number WP2188785

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