Skip to Content
  • time delivery images 2 Day Quick Delivery!
  • box-refresh images 365 Day Return Policy!
  • lovely images 15 million satisfied customers
  • boxes images Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock
  • headphone imagesFree Tech Support!
  • google images Google Trusted Store

Customer Questions and Answers for Range Electronic Control Board by Whirlpool

Best Seller
Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM17873670
Manufacturer Part Number: W10769079

If your range buttons aren't responding or oven won't heat, the electronic control board may have failed. This part restores full function. DIY repair.

More
$359.84
Compare At:
$429.10
You Save:
$69.26

Out Of Stock

Usually ships within 4 - 14 days

Add to Cart

Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Range Electronic Control Board (Part Number: OEM17873670)

1 Answer

Hello Ken, The door lock motor is mounted on the rear of this unit. You will need to pull the unit out and unplug it and remove the rear panel to access the door lock assembly. You will then remove the motor from the linkage and operate it to unlock the door. From this point, the door lock assembly 74007429 should be replaced. To do this, you will need to remove the cooktop and the right, (as you face the appliance from the front) bodyside. The upper and lower door lock assemblies are the same.

Read More...

1 Answer

Billy, If you check at the control board and get a 0 reading then it sounds like you are loosing power to the control board. You will want to trace your wires back to make sure that there are no thermostats that could be faulty and check to make sure that there are no loose or broken wires. If all checks ok then you will want to replace the control board.

Read More...

1 Answer

John, Yes, the ERC / Clock should be a straight across trade out. Just make sure you label the wires as you remove them from the original ERC. It'll be a lot easier in long run. As for the "overlay, you would probably want to have one handy. Quite often they have a tendency to wrinkle and crease when being removed from the original ERC, Unless you're very careful. It doesn't present a very pretty picture when the job is completed.

Read More...

1 Answer

Chris, If you test the control board from L2 to bake for the lower oven with the unit set for bake there should be 240 vac. If not there is and the oven is not heating then the control board is faulty and would need to be replaced. If there is not then you will want to check to check wiring from the control board to the elements. Most likely this would be a bad control board.

Read More...
Cam for Model Number Mer6751aaw

About a year ago the upper bake element went out in our may tag Gemini mer6751aaw. We procrastinated replacing it using the bottom oven instead. Lst week the bottom bake element went out. With kids and stuff ending up on the bake elements from time to time (baked pizza cutter???) we assumed they gave up the ghost due to use and abuse. The unit is about 8 years old. I saw a reference in the questions to swapping some wiring to test the relays, but it was a slightly different model and wanted to ask the next suggested step before just replacing the control board due to cost. We just ordered both bake elements assuming (yes... I know about assuming) they were aged out.

1 Answer

Peter, Since only the control panel is working you will want to check at your terminal block for 240 vac across the outside 2 posts. If there is not 240 vac then check from each of the outer post to the center post for 120 vac. Which ever side does not have 120 vac is the side you are losing voltage on. You will then want to check the power outlet for 240 vac. If there is power then you have a bad power cord and would need to be replaced. If you do not have 240 vac then you have a home wiring issue or the breaker is faulty.

Read More...
Robert E. for Model Number Maytag Gemini MER6751AAS

For a while now we've noticed temperature differences in our lower oven. Now, it won't heat at all. I took the back panel off and tested the voltage output directly from the control panel. When I turn the lower oven on, I hear the relays "click" and I get a full 220V. Within 1-2 seconds, the relay "clicks" again and the voltage goes to zero. Is this just a bad relay(s) or the whole control panel? If it is a relay, how do I determine which relay is bad? Thanks

1 Answer

Hello Robert, The characteristic of the relay clicking on and off is normal operation. This will occur with a new board in place. The test you performed proved you have a good board. Now you should test the lower bake element WP7406P428-60 and the high limit 74009969.

Read More...

1 Answer

Mark, You will want to check your door latch to see if the latch switch is good. If the door is locked then you can try to disconnect power for 30 minutes and then back on to see if it will reset. If the door is not locked and there is no issue with switches on the latch, then the control would need to be replaced.

Read More...

Have questions? Ask our pros!

Contact us in a way that is convenient for you

Call us 1-877-477-7278
Need Help? Chat with a Pro
Or ask a question by filling in the form

Share your thoughts with other customers

Ask a Question
  • boxes images Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock
  • time delivery images 2 Day Quick Delivery!
  • box-refresh images 365 Day Return Policy!
  • headphone imagesFree Tech Support!
  • google images Google Trusted Store