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Customer Questions and Answers for Inf Switch Kit ( Dual ) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12026046
Manufacturer Part Number: 12002125

The Infinite Switch Kit (Dual) is an OEM part for Whirlpool ranges and cooktops. This kit includes the dual infinite switch, which allows for the independent control of two heating elements on the same burner. It provides precise control over the temperature settings for cooking surfaces, ensuring optimal performance.

Causes of a bad infinite switch can include wear and tear from frequent use, electrical surges, or exposure to moisture and spills. These issues can affect the switch's ability to regulate the burner temperature effectively.

Symptoms of a bad infinite switch include:

  • One or both burners not heating up or heating inconsistently
  • Burners staying at a fixed heat level regardless of the setting
  • Difficulty in adjusting the burner temperature
  • The switch feeling loose, stuck, or unresponsive

This OEM part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Inf Switch Kit ( Dual ) (Part Number: OEM12026046)

John for Model Number RF340BXHW1

The back, left-hand burner (vent pipe in the middle) is not working on my electric whirlpool range. I switched the receptacle and the element but it still doesn't heat up even though the hot surface light comes on. The other burners all work fine. The video for "inf switch kit (dual)" looks like what I need, but I want to confirm. Also, I don't know what "dual" refers to and that makes me question if this is the correct part. Thanks for your help.

1 Answer

John, The correct part to order for the model number you supplied is WP3149404 / 3148951 (left rear infinite switch). Your range does not have "dual" elements, it has "coil" elements. "Dual" element usually refers to radiant or ceramaspeed elements with an inner and outer element ribbons that can be switched from the small inner ring and the large outer ring and are used on ranges with smooth glass cooktops. The part is in stock and available. Thanks,

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1 Answer

Mike, Apparently the P2 and the no. 4 and 4A contacts inside the infinite switch 12002125 / 12002125 are damaged and supplying L2 power to both element ribbons when the switch is in any "on" position. For the no. 6 and 7 keypad issue, you can remove the control panel, carefully disconnect the keypad ribbon from the control board, and clean the end of the ribbon with a clean rag and rubbing alcohol. Carefully reinsert the ribbon into the control board connection, reapply power and test the keypads for operation. If the problem persists you'll need to replace the control panel WP74005748 / 74005748.

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1 Answer

Hello Ed, Since the elements are not polarized parts the wires can be swapped and the elements will work the same. This is not an issue.

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Georgius for Model Number Jenn Air C236B-C infinite Switch Replacement

Great forum! Thank you. I am replacing an infinite switch on a Jenn Air C236B-C cook top. The original part number is 8928C with L1, L2, H1, H2 and P connectors (5 in total). The replacement part is made by Whirlpool (W11120791) with L1, L2, H1, Hc and 2 P connectors (6 in total). I Called Whirlpool for help - they just gave me the run around. The supplier couldn’t help either - and will not take the part back. Do you happen to know which connectors on the old part correlate with the new part? Or where I can find that information?

1 Answer

Goergius, All the connectors will match the same L1 to L1, L2 to L2, H1 to H1, H2 to HC and then P to one of the P.

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1 Answer

Jim, On the new switch Original terminal number 2 will go to terminal P1, Orginal terminal 3 will go to Terminal 4, Original terminal 5 will go to terminal P, The N double red will go to Terminal number 2, the Blue will go to Terminal 4a.

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Gene Gygax for Model Number JED8430BDB

I need to replace the dual-element switch on my Jenn-Air JED8430BDB cooktop. To be very specific, the cooktop has 4 burners - qty 2, 6", single-element heating elements (different wattages, back right, front left), qty 1, 8", single-element (back left), and qty 1, 8", dual-element (front right) that takes a switch which controls both the inner and outer heating elements in an either/or fashion, Lo-3-6-9-Hi for the inner element, and Lo-3-5-7-9-Hi for the outer element (all of the other 3 are Lo-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-Hi). I need the part number for the dual-element switch, but the switches I have found that look like they might fit don't seem to match up with the JED8430BDB Jenn-Air model number. Help would be appreciated and maybe even result in a sale!

David for Model Number CVE3400W

I ordered a switch for my dual LR element on my Jenn-Air downdraft ceramic top stove. I was sent a WP repair part #12002125 to replace original. It is smaller and the wiring hookups are different. I found a schematic of the original electric wiring and using that I positioned the wires to the new switch. When I turned the power back on the burner would not work. Instruction sheet said to separate red power wires and connect the one marked L2 to terminal 2 on new switch. Did that and dual element works great but none of the others work now and the heat indicator light stays on for that burner. There were other instructions about a piggyback connection but I am unsure what that is and the wires they talk about are not the same in my application. Help please.

1 Answer

David, For this model you would separate the 2 wires that were connected to L2 and you will want to locate which one will go back to the L2 supply. This wire that goes back to the L2 supply will connect to the P2 on the new switch and the other will connect to terminal 2. The one connected to terminal 2 should lead to the other switches.

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Matt for Model Number jes9800aaq

Hi -- I have a Jenn-Air, Model Number: jes9800aaq, Serial Number starting with 18 I replaced the right dual switch with a new one from AppliancePartsPros.com and it worked well. Now I have to replace the left dual switch one but the wiring is total different from the right dual switch switch! The wires on the left switch I want to replace are: -two yellow wires -red dual wires and black dual wires (main power?) -a black wire for the lamp I think I can figure out the red/black power wires but where do the two yellow wires go (and how come on the right dual switch I have three non-pwr, non-lamp wires (tan, yellow, red) but on this left dual switch I just have two non-pwr, non-lamp wires (two yellows)? Thank you! Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/570189-jenn-air-dual-switch-wiring.html#ixzz4jcyp2OTb http://www.appliancepartspros.com

1 Answer

Matt, The 2 yellow wires will go to the 4 and 4a on the unit. You will need to determine which wire is going to the inner element and which to the outer element as this will determine which it goes on. The inner element goes to 4 and the outer goes to 4a.

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Jdcowboy for Model Number JES9800AAB

I installed a new infinite switch for the left dual burner. Part number 12002125. I turned on the left dual burner and it came on as expected except the inner burner was not working or at least not heating fully. Then with the left dual burner still on high, I turned on the right dual burner. There was a huge arc inside the stove, it ended up throwing not only the breaker for the oven, but the main breaker for the entire house. Turns out the switch blew so bad that it burned a few of the connectors. My questions, was this just coincidence that it blew when I put the new switch in,(I am guessing not)? I hooked up the switch according to how the right one was hooked up. It has a few color differences in the wires, instead of tan it has a blue wire, and the single red wire looks to be orange. The wiring schematic talks about a compound connection and a piggyback connection, but does not mention how to recognize the difference. Can you tell me how I can tell what type of connection I have so I can separate the red wires if necessary? This would not make sense to me as they were together on the old switch that looks exactly the same. Old switch number is 7403P831-60. Can you please help me I dont want to fry another switch!

1 Answer

JDCowboy, It does not appear that there would be any difference in the connection of the switch. Here is how it should be wired. Double black wire to P1 with a Jumper wire between the P1 to S1. Single red wire that goes to the element on terminal 2, double red wire to P2, single black wire that goes to the indicator to S2. The tan will be on number 4 and the Orange to 4a. If you have wired this way then the switch is wired properly. If wired incorrectly it could have caused failure of the switch and if it is wired properly both inner and outer element should come on full and if not then the element would be faulty.

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