Escarole Nyc August 09, 2016 for Model Number PSI23MCMABB GE has replaced the original Damper part with part number WR49X10091. The design is very different from the original, which was called Climate Keeper (labeled on the "trunk" of the part that rests of the back wall of the fresh food section). The Climate Keeper has two "ducts" running on the top of the compartment, one on each side of the ceiling light, with an opening on each that is towards the front of the refrigerator. The replacement part, which will also attach to the back and "ceiling" of the compartment, has only one duct and one opening, which when installed will be on one side towards the middle of the refrigerator. Do we have anything to worry about as to whether the new part will perform as well as the old part, even though it appears - on the surface, at least - that it might not convey as much air or convey it as evenly through the compartment as the original? Thank you
1 Answer Hello Escarole NYC, The new design WR49X10091 is listed by the manufacturer as the recommended replacement part for the damper assembly on the model number provided. This indicates a change in design by the manufacturer because of a repeated issue with the original design. The new part should rectify this issue and provide satisfactory results in the operation of the appliance. Read More...
Harry July 08, 2016 for Model Number PSS25NGMDWW The fresh food section of the refrigerator stays at a temperature of 45 to 50 degrees. The freezer section stays at the set point of near 0 degrees. I removed the Damper Assembly and let the refrigerator run for a day and the temperature dropped to 30 degrees. I plugged in the damper assembly and was able to observe the damper door and the fan. I let the refrigerator warm a bit by keeping the door open and the damper assembly fan will run but the damper door never opens. Should the damper door be open whenever the fan is running? Can the damper door control be changed without changing the entire damper assembly? Is the damper door and the fan controlled separately by the mother board of the refrigerator.
1 Answer Hello Harry, I'm sorry but on this model the damper has to be changed as an assembly WR49X10091. The main board WR55X10942C does control the damper and can cause the complaint but is less likely to fail than the damper assembly. Read More...
Jim July 08, 2016 for Model Number PSC23SGPASS The temperature in the freezer and refrigerator often is near the setpoints of 0°F and 37°F, but about 5 days ago the freezer temperature gradually went up to 23 while the refrigerator stayed near setpoint. Then it started working correctly for about 2 days, but just now we realized that the freezer is again up to 17F while the refrigerator is still near the setpoint. During neither of these incidents had we added any food to the freezer that might have caused a temperature swing. Is this an intermittent damper problem or something else? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Jim, This can be caused by a evaporator fan motor WR60X10185, failing damper WR49X10091, or control WR55X10942C issue. There may not be an issue at all if the defrost had recently been accomplished, which causes a 15 to 20 degree increase in temperature. As a note, the failures are listed in the order of most commonly occurring causes of the complaint provided. Read More...
Ryan J. June 06, 2016 for Model Number DSS25KGRCWW The refrigerator side gets down to around 45°F. The freezer side gets as low as -10°. I have changed 4 thermistors, 2 on the freezer side and 2 on the refrigerator side. I have changed out the mother board and the damper/fan assembly. It seems that when the refrigerator side gets around 45°F, the damper closes and or fan in the damper/fan assembly stops. I warmed the refrigerator upper thermistor and then changed the refrigerator set point, and can hear the damper motor open and close. When open, I can feel a little air flow out of the bottom of the damper /fan assembly. But when it hits around 45°F, I don't feel any air flow. My evaporator fan on the freezer side is running. I do not have any frost on the back panel of the freezer. What is the next thing to check? Thank you
1 Answer Hello Ryan, If the air return at the bottom of the fresh food compartment is not blocked behind the shelves, I would check for connection issues to the damper from the main control and possible pinched wires. If these are all good, check for a frost build-up on the freezer side where the damper duct is located and check the air return at the bottom of the unit. If no problems are located, the issue is most likely a failing evaporator fan motor WR60X10185. Read More...
Darren February 09, 2016 for Model Number PSS26SGRASS I believe I have a bad damper, as the fresh food side is too cold, and the freezer is too warm. I have watched the repair video, however, my model is different in two way. First, my damper cover is not white, it has lettering and says "Climate Keeper". The "air tower" runs all the way down the back fresh food side. I cannot see how to remove it to access the damper screws. It is definitely different than the small one in the repair video which just goes down a little way from the damper. On the parts diagram for my model, it is part 200. Also, do you sell a damper with the same custom lettering on it?
1 Answer Darren, The damper control for your unit will be part number WR49X10091 and the lower section is separate from this part. There will possibly be a screw holding the panel at the bottom in place and if not then you will want to grab the bottom of the tower and pull out. This will release the panel and allow it to be removed. Then following the instructions in the video it will show you how to remove the damper to replace. Read More...
Jared August 28, 2015 for Model Number GSS25XSRDSS I have replaced almost everything I can on this fridge, the board, defroster unit, 2 thermistors on freezer side and the thermostat. I checked the dampener and it is opening and closing. But the fridge keeps running 24/7...... I dont know what else to change but the last 2 thermistors on the fridge side. I just feel like something else is wrong.
1 Answer Hello Jared. If the temp in the unit is correct, then the unit is doing as is should do. If it is running to cold, then you will need to check those other thermistors. Thanks. Read More...
Carol August 26, 2015 for Model Number WR49X10091 I bought and installed the damper kit because my refrigerator was freezing all my food. Now it is getting too warm? It is getting up to 40 degrees unless I manually change the setting? Any suggestions?
1 Answer Hello Carol. It sounds like the cold control is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit. Read More...
Vr May 27, 2015 for Model Number ESS25LGNAWW My food is freezing in the fresh food section. It was doing it on and off for a few weeks, now it is doing it consistently. Do I need to just replace the damper control assembly, or something else? Is there a way to be sure before replacing the damper control assembly, so I don't needlessly replace it? All other electronic functionality seems to be fine, so I didn't think it would be the main control board, but not sure.
1 Answer Hello VR. You can remove the damper and see if the door is broken in it. Also, test for power to it. If there is power there, and it is open, it is bad. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Roger March 15, 2015 for Model Number ESF25LGRBWW My freezer works fine but the refrigerator will only cool to 40 degrees no matter what setting its on. I have no ice build up on the coils. The damper door is open and closes if the frigid shut off. The turbo cool light is on all the time and get brighter when you push it and the fan starts. If I try to set the refrigerator temperature colder than 5 it will turn off both the freezer and refrigerator. Do you have any suggestions on the parts I might need?
1 Answer Roger, You will want to check the thermistor to make sure that it is within resistance range. The resistance should be 42.2K ohms at 0 degrees, 14.4K ohms at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at room temp of 77 degrees. Read More...
Robert H. February 27, 2015 for Model Number GSS23QGTAWW The fresh food section has been running too cold and freezing the food. Following other postings as to the problem, I've replaced the damper assembly and then the 2 thermostats in the refrigerator wall but it is still freezing up. What should I try next? I posted this question a few days ago but did not receive a reply.
1 Answer Hello Robert, If there is frost developing in the damper assembly, you should check for an air leak around the door seals and the ice door. The frost develops when room temperature air enters the unit and the humidity condenses and freezes in the damper. The most common cause of this on this design is the ice door solenoid WR62X10055 rusting and seizing, holding the ice door partially open. Read More...