Customer Questions and Answers for Electronic Control Board by Whirlpool

Hello Gannyto7, Based on information it sounds as if though you either have a faulty door switch or oven latch switch. The F5 -E1 represents that the self clean latch will not lock. There are some steps you want to take to check. 1. If door latched: Disconnect power from unit. Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C. Replace door switch. Re-apply power. Press and hold any key down for 1 minute to clear F5 failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct. 2. If door not latched: Disconnect power from unit. Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C. Repeat steps A and B for door switch. 3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage terminals). Replace switch if defective. 4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION - oven light contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective. 5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct. 6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello MH. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the electronic control WPW10438751 is bad and will need to be replaced.

John, There are two control thermal fuses WP4456654 and WP4451042 They are both rated and configured the same,except for the attachment terminals. If the WP4456654 matches your present fuse, then order and use it. You may also want to check for 12 to 20 VAC across the blue wires from the control power transformer to the P16 pis 2 and 3, this is the low voltage circuit to the display and relays in the control board if the problem persists

Hello Eddy, You should first check voltage to the board through the fuse WPW10291948. If there is no voltage going to the board from the fuse, the fuse will be all you need to correct the issue. If the voltage is going to the board, you need to check for 120Vac going into the low voltage transformer at terminals P16-5 to terminal P16-7. If testing between these two terminals shows you the 120Vac, you need to read the output voltage from this low voltage transformer. This will be i the neighborhood of 20Vdc voltage. Note the dc voltage has to be read on the dc scale of the meter. This reading will be taken from terminal P16-2 to terminal P16-3. If this voltage isn't present, you will need to replace the low voltage transformer. If it is present, you will need to replace the main control board WPW10438751. The sister board WP8301848, as the manufacturer calls it, has nothing to do with the issue you are experiencing. It is the self-clean board responsible for sending voltage to the door lock assemblies. This is its' only function, so you should just be careful with it and move it to the new assembly if need be.

Hello Chris, The E6-F2 error code that you are getting indicates you have a stuck key. You want to make sure that you have good connections on control board. If connections are good then you will need to replace the control panel assembly with membrane WP8300435 for the black, WP8300436 for white, or WP8300435 for biscuit. --

Hello William. If so, you will need to order part number WP8302994.

Hello GI. Based on the information you provided, WPW10438751 is the control board you need to replace in the unit.

Hi. Use a volt/ohm meter part # MA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. First of all reset the breaker to see if it is not fully engaged. Or check to see if a fuse has opened. Open the top panel and see if the terminal bock itself has issues and needs changed with part # WP8203546. Verify that you have 240/120 vac to the terminal block and both outer terminals reading 120 vac to the middle neutral leg itself. Make sure all wires are tight. Follow the wiring diagram to see if the L1 clock input has power to the clock. Replace the clock part # WPW10438751 if needed. Thank You.

Hello SK, The electronic control WPW10438751 needs to be replaced.

Hello Jack. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the control board WPW10438751 and the control panel is bad and will need ot be replaced on the unit. If the board was bad, and you hooked up a new control panel to the board, it may have damaged the new control panel as well.