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Customer Questions and Answers for Thermostat by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18026052
Manufacturer Part Number: WP35001087

This thermostat is a temperature-sensitive switch that opens and closes the heating circuit to control heat. Replacing a worn or failed thermostat restores consistent temperature regulation and helps protect your appliance from overheating, shutdowns, or underheating.

  • Monitors internal temperature and cycles the circuit on and off as designed
  • Helps prevent overheating by opening at its calibrated threshold
  • Failure can cause no heat, overheating, or intermittent cycling
  • Irregular temperatures or longer run times are common symptoms
What's included: Includes 1 thermostat. Install notes:
  • Disconnect power (and shut off gas, if applicable). Allow the appliance to cool completely before service.
  • Note wire positions; transfer one lead at a time to the new thermostat.
  • Mount the thermostat firmly/flush against its mating surface or bracket for accurate sensing.
  • Use a multimeter to check continuity per your model's service specs; replace if out of tolerance.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Thermostat (Part Number: OEM18026052)

Dan for Model Number NGD7200TW10

Hello, I have a question on this Thermostat (WP35001087) or https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-thermostat-wp35001087-ap6008681.html. This part is broken on my dryer (NGD7200TW10). I have many parts similar to this thermostat (shapes, etc). The problem is that I cannot see the part number on any of them, even the one which is broken (one side has: B-2; K85; 4019; another side has: Lina CS-7; on the side, NOTHING!). I even cannot find part number on the post you have-see the link above. How do we know their part number (for example. I can give you two parts I picked from my "collections". #1: N 85; 75; 6Z05; #2 PTS17S; 62D3; N85). Please help Thank you

1 Answer

Dan, Based on the information provided the part WP35001087 is compatible with your model number and is the part we recommend as it is the OEM, manufacture recommended part.

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1 Answer

Amber, Based on the information provided this part does show to be compatible with your model.

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1 Answer

Hello Rey. You need to test and see where you losing power at. Either the timer or the motor may be a fault. You start at the heater and unplug the wires to it. The being extremely careful as your testing live power, you start the unit and trace each wire to see where you losing voltage. You will replace the part that is bad on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Jenner, You will want to check the door switch to make sure that the switch is good. Check to make sure that there is power getting to the motor and if there is no power to the motor then you will need to check to see if thermal fuse is good. If the thermal fuse reads open then replace the fuse if closed then the control is most likely at fault

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1 Answer

Hello Albert, Yes, Albert, the thermostat could be bad when showing continuity. The way this could happen is when it gets hot enough that it should open, the contacts inside the apparatus can be stuck and never shutting the heater off. This of course would cause the opposite of your complaint. The thermistor could be part of the issue, but it is more likely to be a control issue than the thermistor, if it ohmed out to the proper resistance (10KO @ 77°F). There could be a lint build-up on the thermistor inside the duct causing it to short cycle. I would suspect the thermistor or the control as the issue. I am suspecting that you are referring to the highest temperature of the cycle. Here is how the average temperature should be obtained. Insert the temperature probe of your digital meter into the exhaust of the dryer. Start the unit and allow it to top out on its' temperature and cool down twice before annotating any readings. When it tops out, write the reading down.When it bottoms out, write the reading down. When it has done this three times, this is three cycles. Add the six numbers together and divide by six. This number is the average operating temperature. Checking the average temperature this way should be cycling from about 110°F to about 180°F for an average operating temperature of about 145°F with the unit set to a normal setting.

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1 Answer

Dave, If the thermostat has failed again, check and make sure the exhaust vent duct and vent hood are not restircted,clogged,or kinked. Check the inlet duct under the lint filter and remove any lint build up in the housing. If the unit is in a closet, make sure the doors are remaining open when the dryer is in use.You may also want to consider a new thermistor WP35001191, it could be irratic due to the heat stress. Thanks

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1 Answer

Hi Christina. I would use a volt/ohm meter part # MA-DM1 to assist. you in your diagnosis. There is a thermistor part # WP35001191 on the blower housing cover. It should read 10,000 ohms at room temperature of 77­°. If not within 5% then change it. There is a safety fuses to the left of it. Make sure it is closed at 0 ohms. Not open or infinity. This will stop the heat. Check the thermostats on the side of the heater assy. part # WPW10222771. All fuses need to be at o-ohms, closed. They will open in a over heat or a shorted circuit or wire. Make sure the heater ohms out between 10-18 ohms and is not shorted to the casing. Ohm one side terminal to the casing at a time to make sure.

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1 Answer

Hello Jgrover. Check and see if you are loosing gas to the unit. If so, you may have a bad gas valve WP35001190. The regulator is made onto the gas valve on this unit. Make sure the igniter is good and not weak on the unit. If it glows, and the unit does not lite all the time, replace the igniter WP33002789. Hope this helps.

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