Tony June 07, 2021 for Model Number JB700SJ2SS The front left 9" dual burner on my GE JB700SJ2SS range lights up when switched on but when i place a pot on the burner it quickly goes off.
1 Answer Tony, This would be a faulty element limiter and would need to replace the element for the unit. Read More...
Hussien November 29, 2020 My center burner is not working. What is the correct replacement part? GE Profile™ Series 36" Built-In Cooktop Model #: PP962SMSS
1 Answer Hussien, The part number for the 12" center element will be part number WB30T10096. Read More...
Jere November 25, 2020 for Model Number z28jere@gmail.com My model # jb705st2ss I need the power boil & three-ring burner.
Murster October 27, 2020 for Model Number JBS60DF1WW I need the switch controlling this element. Both G.E. and your websites do not show a part number or a sub. The element is this: Part Number: AP4345739 Manufacturer's Part Number: WB30T10133 My switch works both elements at low temp setting. if you turn up the heat past 4, you can hear it sparking and the outer burner goes out. Turn it down and the burner reheats.
1 Answer Murster, the infinite switch WB24T10153 would be used for the dual burner on the model provided. Read More...
D Hicks September 04, 2020 for Model Number JB710WH3WW GE My stove has a dual burner on the front right. It is about 12in/9in. The large burner portion has stopped working. The inside still heats up. What part do I need?
Lari August 27, 2020 for Model Number JBP80S0M2SS My right front burner is not working properly. What is the correct replacement part?
Val May 13, 2020 for Model Number J B640S R3SS Right front dual burners - inner burner stopped working but the larger outer burner works. Need part number to replace and how to replace. Push upper button and larger outer element works. push button to small element and it does not work.
1 Answer Val, The right front dual element for your unit will be part number WB30T10130. To replace the element you will first disconnect the power to the unit. With the unit disconnected, you will then open the oven door, remove the screws at the top the hold the maintop in place. Once these screws are removed you will be able to lift the main top and flip it over. You can then access and replace the element. Read More...
Dennis September 10, 2019 for Model Number GE range JBP27DM1BB The inside portion of a 9" dual element does not light or heat up. I visually examined the element and I could not see any burned or broken heating wires. What is my next best item to check?
1 Answer Hello Dennis, the model number you gave is showing as an electric stove with conventional single-element coil cooktop burners, would you recheck the model number and repost your question so we can locate the correct part for you. Read More...
Dennis September 10, 2019 for Model Number GE Range JBP27DM1BB Where do you find the part number on the individual heating elements?
1 Answer Dennis, for your model, the 6 inch surface heating element is part number WB30X24401, the 8 inch is part number WB30T10074. The bake element is part number WB44K10012, and the broil element is part number WB30X46986. Read More...
Kim August 09, 2019 for Model Number JSP46SP2SS The big eye on my cooktop will cut on for about 10 seconds and then will go off. It has to cool down for a while before it will come back on. do I need to replace the element or could the problem be coming from the switch? I know that the burners cut on and off during normal cooking to regulate the temp but mine just stays off for a period before it will come back on. It won't come back on on it own, I have to cut the burner off and then cut it back on later. I have found the burner and switch on your site, but I just want to get the right part to start with. Thanks for the help!
1 Answer Hello Kim, that problem is typical of a failing high-temperature limiter that is part of the burner assembly, however to be certain it would be necessary to duplicate the problem, and at that time access the burner's infinite switch and test for the correct voltage at the infinite switches terminals with a multimeter. You would be looking for 240v at terminal 2 blue wire to terminal 4 blue/black wire.If you do not have a multimeter or are uncomfortable doing a live voltage test then the other way to look at it is it would not be uncommon to replace both the switch and the burner at the same time as if this is a high use burner and s it is starting to fail then the contacts in the switch may be worn also and may fail soon. Read More...