Mike April 27, 2013 for Model Number le440xwwo dryer not heating ! already replaced heating element what is next?
1 Answer Mike, check and make sure there is 220-240 VAC at the terminal block on the back of the dryer, or reset the breakers at the breaker box several times. The thermal cut off kit would be the next logical move, but you should test them both for a "closed" circuit with a meter. Read More...
Roger April 16, 2013 for Model Number le8650xwwo Do the thermal cut off in these model take a jumper wire to heat element? And do these part # work on these model #ap3094224
1 Answer Roger, Your unit does take the thermal cutoff kit and will use the jumper from the heating element to the thermostat. Read More...
Sukhi April 06, 2013 for Model Number Dryer Model# 11062702100 My dryer is spinning but not heating up. I put a new heating coil and a thermostat but still won't heat. While doing this I noticed that one of the orange wires that is attached to the thermal cut -off unit is burnt and the wire has broken off. Could this be why it is not heating.
1 Answer Sukhi, If the wire going to the thermal cutoff if burnt and broken then yes this would cause the unit to not heat. You will need to repair the wire connector and test the thermal cut off to make sure that it is still good. To test this you would do a continuity test. If there is continuity then the thermal fuse is good. If no continuity then you would need to replace the thermal fuse 279769. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
E February 04, 2013 for Model Number Kenmore seris 80 I change out my appliance cord from a 3 prong to a 4 prong. II inital wire the black wire to the white wire and white to black. ( very poor lighting). Once I turn on the breaker and it immediately tripped. I new i had done something wrong. I got a flashlight and discovered that i wired the dryer incorrectly. I swapped the two wire and the dryer came on but will not heat up. Can you advise what is causing this?
1 Answer Hello E. Most likely you damaged the motor or the timer on the unit. You will need to test locate the bad part on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Susan C January 08, 2013 for Model Number GEW9868KT3 Two days ago i was uaing the dryer, it was running normally, when the cycle stopped it beeped like normal. I took the clothes out of the dryer and put another load in. When i went to set the cycle and turn it on, there was NO POWER AT ALL. My landlord checked the outlet for current, there was full current. he even checked the piggy back cord. There was power going into the dryer. When I open the dryer door, the light doesnt even come on. Is there a relay/reset switch? could it be a fuse in the panel that might be blown? if so where would it be? please help Thank You, Susan Carlisle
1 Answer Hello Susan. You need to check the door switch and the thermal fuse WP3392519 on the unit. They should read closed for continuity. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
J.P. December 22, 2012 for Model Number Kenmore 71202 (gas dryer) Your video was extremely helpful on troubleshooting a gas dryer than turns but does not heat. Those are my symptoms on a Kenmore model 71202. I checked the 4 thermostats that mine has (or appears to have), and found these resistances: intake thermo # 1 (part CS-7) = open circuit intake thermo # 2 (part L205-40F?) = 0 ohm exhaust thermo (part ?) = 7 Kohm rear housing thermo (part?) = 100 ohm I do not see any glow at the igniter when I start the dryer, so I'm guessing that a bad thermo is preventing it. If CS-7 is supposed to be 0 ohm when cold, then do you agree that it is the main cause? What about the other two with non-zero resistances? I checked all with at least one terminal wire unplugged. I pulled CS-7 totally out and remeasured, it still shows open circuit. I found part CS-7 on your website. How many days to deliver? Thanks for your help. JP
1 Answer Hello J.P., Sounds like you have found the issue. There should be no resistance there, not an open circuit. The delivery time depends on where you are and where the warehouse that has the part in stock where it will be shipped from is located. Parts usually will show up in 2 to 5 business days from the date of order. Read More...
Ann December 18, 2012 for Model Number REX 4634 KQ1 Because my dryer was not longer heating and only blowing cold air on all heating cycles, I replaced the heating element but not the thermal fuse, cycling thermostat nor the Hi Limit thermostat. The dryer still does not heat. I am not able to test any of these items so to avoid spending money unnecessarily, what part would you recommend trying to replace first to see if that part is the problem and then go from there? Are there other parts that could prevent the drying from heating that I did not mention. I have cleaned the vents, etc.Its a Roper made by Whirlpool eletric dryer. Thanks
1 Answer Hello Ann, I would recommend purchasing a meter and testing the parts. Guessing on which part is it, could lead to a simple voltage issue and really no parts being needed. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
George November 23, 2012 for Model Number 110-60922990 My Kenmore dryer gets way too hot on the lowest setting. I have taken off the cover and can see the element glowing red hot on all settings. Is there a thermostat that controls the temperature or is it in the switch? George
1 Answer Hello George, The temperature is controlled by the cycling thermostat. In case it fails, the high limit thermostat should prevent the heat from getting high enough to burn out the heating element. In case the high limit thermostat fails, the thermal cut-out should blow. With all of these safetys on the unit, it is a good bet that the heating element WP3387747 may well be shorted to ground. A couple of things to check. Use a volt/ohm meter part #TJMA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. Measure the resistance of the heating element. Make sure the element is not shorted to the... more case one element terminal at a time. Remove the element and look at it between the windings to see if it has expanded and shorted. This will make it stay on during cool down. The 2nd device is the thermistor part #WP3387134. It should be open at cold temperatures. If the inner contacts have welded itself closed then it will not open. Providing constant voltage to the element. It is best to also change the safety thermostat part #279816 because it has been weakened as well. Read More...
Ivan September 12, 2012 for Model Number Kenmore Elite electric dryer (MOD: 110.62084101) My Kenmore Elite electric dryer (MOD: 110.62084101) keeps blowing the thermal fuse. I have cleaned the ducts (the airflow is great) and replaced both the fuse and the thermostat, but the fuse seems to last only about 30 days. The heater coil is NOT grounded and the thermostat is NOT faulty. I tested the thermostat by checking the continuity with the multimeter while holding an open flame from a lighter on the thermostat; it opens the circuit when it’s heated and closes the circuit when it cools off, like it’s supposed to. I have already replaced two sets of fuses and thermostats and both times the thermostat was working, so I’m pretty sure that the temperature near the fuse is not equal to the temperature near the thermostat; I don’t know why. I’m running out of ideas. I’m considering hammering the heater housing duct where the thermostat is attached, so the the thermostat is deeper into the heater housing duct, which will hopefully allow it to get hot enough and open the circuit before the fuse blows. Any suggestions? Thanks.
1 Answer Ivan, We'll need to start in a nother direction. First, check the blower wheel, make sure it's not loose on the shaft, cracked, brokrn or the vanes aren't clogged. Check and make sure the tumbler seals and the blower seal fit tight against the drum, and blower housing. You may have to use an amp probe meter and check the amperage draw on the heater circuit (20 amps +/- 10%) and should have a resistance of 8.5 to 11.5 ohms. You also want to check to see if there's an amp draw, when the dryer is not running, that would indicate a faulty heat circuit in the motor switch or heater relay. Aws a last resort, you may want to check the wiring and repalce the thermistor WP8577274 there is a possibility there. Read More...
Swant50 July 06, 2012 for Model Number 110.63024101 trying to replace thermostat in dryer, unable to get back off even with all the hardware out?
1 Answer Swant50, Your heater and fuse kit are accessed through the front of the dryer, not the back. Unhook and remove the front lower access panel, you see the heater assembly W10802681 mounted to the right side of the dryer base assembly , and the thermal fuse kit 279769 mounted to it . Make sure you unplug the power cord, or turn power off to the dryer, before you start anything. Read More...