Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Thermal Cut-Off Kit by Whirlpool

Hello Ivette, The small fuse is a thermal fuse. This means that the fuse is opened by high temperatures. There are two things you can do. First, check the exhaust duct to make sure it is as short and straight as possible. This allows the unit to get rid of the heat so the thermal fuse won't blow too easily. The other thing, if the first doesn't work, is to replace the cycling thermostat. The cycling thermostat should open before the thermal fuse gets hot enough to open.

Hello Gary. No, it is not safe or recommended to tape the two wires together. You need to wait until the new cut-off 279769 arrives to install the part and run the unit.

Hello Terri. It sounds like either there is a wiring issue, or the timmer or motor is bad. You will need to test and see where you are loosing the voltage to the heater at. Be careful, you are dealing with live power doing this test. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Scott, The thermal cut off, is a "one shot" fus3e system, once it opens it stays open, and the dryer would not heat at all. The first thing to check in your case, is the exhaust vent system and vent hood, You need to check and clean any lint build up in the pipes, check the hood and flapper for damage or collapse, and any flex venting for kinks. Good Luck and Thanks

Hello Teresa. Make sure there is 240 volts coming to the unit and it is not set to air fluff. Also, make sure the heater is good on the unit. If so, you will need to trace the wires coming off the heater and see where you are loosing voltage at. You may have a bad motor or timer on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the element is grounded and will need to be replaced. Check and see if the element is touching metal and is grounding out. If so, replace the element WP4391960.

Hi. This is caused by a few things. Mainly if the dryer vent is clogged it will back up the heat/ moisture content and overheat the heater and other parts. Make sure that the entire vent is clear and not sagging. Make sure the vent cap/hood outside is opening and closing all the way easily.You will need a volt/ohm meter part # MA-DM1 to assist. If the cycling switch is stuck shut then this will create an issue. Part # WP3387134. If the heater sags and then touches chassis, then it may be energized partially when the unit is off. The heater is part # WP4391960. If then this occurs, it will need the thermal cut off kit part # 279769. Thank You.

Hello Bdg. Yes, if the dryer continues to run past the off position on the timer, you will need to replace the timer on the unit. Hope this helps.

Hi Doug. From what it sounds like it you have covered the vent system and got yourself this far. If there had been enough of time worth of restrictions that it is possible that the element is still expanding enough to impoes the opening of the thermal cut out. Part # WP3392519. Inspect the element to see if there is darl spots on the heater can where the element will short against. Element part # 00660982. If the unit gets hot above the side center of the tub it also can be an indication of the cycling thermostat contacts sticking closed allowing the element to overheat. It needs to close and open at predetermined temperatures also. Part # WP3387134. Thank You.

Hi Pablo. A thermal cut off will open the heat circuit one time for a safety issue. Running without creates a high risk of fire situation since you have effectively bypassed the safety circuit. From what you have described you need the igniter which is weak and is opening under normal operations. Part # 279311. Thank You.