Washer Power Strike Small Engine Float Bowl Gasket Parts

Noticed that lid lock light was not on, googled problem, ordered parts, working on 3rd day. Read more

The part is so new no video so I went onto a similar part and watched video that got me about 80%. Then, called and customer service sent me a service Manual but this still was not specific so I broke the old to get it out and in the process figured out how to do it correctly. So I installed the last bit of it which was the bezel through the machine top by myself correctly. So you take the old one out by pushing out to the right from the bottom side using a screw driver for leverage. It will... Read more

• Lid or door won't close
• Won't start

Not wanting to spend hundreds of dollars on an appliance technician's service call, I searched online to troubleshoot the problems with my particular Maytag Washer Model Number MVWX500BW0. I stumbled across AppliancePartsPros.com and investigated there the most likely causes for my Maytag Washer's not agitating properly and not spinning at all. In order to acquire some additional information, I telephoned AppliancePartsPros.com and spoke with an extremely professional, knowledgeable and helpful... Read more

I noticed the rubber seal (bellow) was damaged near the bottom of the bellow. It looks like removing clothes from the machine had worn away and eventually ripped away some of the seal. This caused water to leak out the bottom of the door. I looked up the model number of my washer on the web and searched for the part number of the bellow. Once I found it I searched eBay, Amazon and a few other places for the part number and opted for Appliance Parts Pros. The part was reasonably priced and... Read more

• Leaks water

Repair went fairly smoothly by following the EXCELLENT how-to video provided. I had only a few issues and suggestions. 1. Because many of the screws and fasteners are of multiple sizes, I would recommend laying them out in a muffin tray or on a paper with labels for where they go back. 2. After removing the weights and prepping to remove the shock absorbers, after the front ones were removed, the tub tilted so far the rear shock absorber separated. The friction pads fell out. It was easy... Read more

I watched the video that was shown on this website to slide the top back, remove the control panel, remove the front panel of the washer, remove the old gasket (the two tension springs are easy to get off, not as easy to replace), cleaned out years of gunk and soap that had built up behind the gasket for 10 years as well as under the rollers in the drum (each roller has a screw, remove it, slide the roller assembly forward and lift up to take off the rollers, and the roller can be broken down... Read more

• Leaking

I had previously replaced the pump about 1 year ago. That was not the problem. Still leaked the same way - intermittently, but always in the center of the washer onto the floor. None of the hoses were leaking - no evidence of corrosion or water mineral residue at any of the hose fittings. So, it must have been something else. I studied the parts diagram for the washer tub assembly and concluded the source of the leak almost had to be the outer tub's Centerpost Gasket. It was really the... Read more

I put this repair off for a long time because I knew the machine would have to be completely torn down to fix it. The repair videos give you the impression that this condition is caused by a bad 'Tub Bearing' which takes a long time to replace but only costs about $15. Don't be lulled into thinking you can fix this for $15. The 'Tub Bearing' is really only a bushing. The one I removed from my washer looked fine but I replaced it anyways. The real problem here is GE's poor design which allows a... Read more

• Won't start
• Lid or door won't close
• Door latch failure
• Will not agitate

Superfast parts delivery. Got packages by the second day. Videos were extremely helpful and well done; we couldn't have done without them although we came across slight differences in our machine and found workarounds. Our machine did not drain the water so I drained the water manually via drain tube at bottom of the machine and checked the filter for blockage. All clear so I read articles on the internet and watched videos and took a chance on replacing the drain pump and circulating motor... Read more

Repair went fairly smoothly by following the EXCELLENT how-to video provided. I had only a few issues and suggestions. 1. Because many of the screws and fasteners are of multiple sizes, I would recommend laying them out in a muffin tray or on a paper with labels for where they go back. 2. After removing the weights and prepping to remove the shock absorbers, after the front ones were removed, the tub tilted so far the rear shock absorber separated. The friction pads fell out. It was easy... Read more

• Lid or door won't close

This was a super-easy repair. You have to line up the spring so that it sits on the bumps inside the magnet holder and the door, then you have to line up the tabs on the magnet holder so they will slide into the slots on the door. Then you just push it in. Repair took less than a minute. Read more

• Leaking

Luckily we planned ahead when building the laundry room, as we built a water catch basin and drain under the washer, but waking up to see 1-2 inches of water is never a good sign - even if it is contained. It appears that a sleeve of a shirt was accidentally caught between the door mechanism and the bellow seal. After a few hundred revolutions in the washer, the shirt knotted up and was torn free of its pinch - in doing so, it tore a quarter sized hole in the rubber bellow seal. This was,... Read more

I ran a diagnostics check on the washing machine and came up with the error code E47 -Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin. The washer thought the door was open and would not finish the spin. I was left with a washer full of very wet clothes. This repair was SO extremely easy. I only needed to uses a pair of needle nose pliers and a screw driver. It took less than 10 minutes, start to finish. Now the new door lock assembly registers correctly and my clothes are completely... Read more

Unscrewed door latch and replaced it with the new door latch (1-2 min). Unscrewed outer plate from door lock assembly. Removed door lock assembly from its outer plate and unplugged wiring. Replaced with new door lock assembly, plugged back in, tightened some screws, double-checked alignment between latch & lock assembly was good and the project was done. Incredibly easy and saved about $150 not having a repair tech come out to fix it. Read more

• Lid or door will not open
• Won't start
• Lid or door won't close

Just removed the old and put on the new,simple.On this Fridgidare washer you should lift the door as you close it which should make the striker last.. Read more

I called an appliance repair company. They use a flat rate billing system which I don't like. They told me it will cost around $250.00 to replace the gasket and I would have to move my machine out so he would have room to repair it. He said the part would be in in 5 days. I found you on line, ordered the part for around $69.00 and to my delight there was a video on how the repairs should be done. The video was very professionally done and I watched it twice just to memorize the procedure. ... Read more