Ldg4910 Aaw Parts

• Will not tumble

First replaced the drum rollers...that wasn't it..took dryer back apart and spun the belt tension wheel by hand (should have done this the first time I took the dryer apart) and it squeaked. so I ordered the full parts: wheel, idler arm, idler spring, arm sleeve, E ring..Put it back together and whoa..no more squealing!! Read more

• No heat or not enough heat
• Takes too long to dry
• Noisy

Our Maytag gas clothes dryer was not drying like it should/used to and was making a lot of noise. After researching online I figured the vent was partially blocked and/or the blower wheel was bad. When I took it apart, the vent had very little lint in the lower elbow exiting the back of the dryer but the blower wheel was loose on the shaft and was missing the clamp. I cleaned out the vent and put a hose clamp on the blower wheel to tighten it to the shaft and tried it again. The noise was... Read more

I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing 2 screws and lifting it up and out. Then I removed 4 screws from the bracket holding the tub in place. I had previously removed the 4 screws from the rear inspection cover so I reached in and released the spring loaded belt that turns the tub and then removed the idler pulley wheel. The tub just lifts out at that point, exposing the 2 Drum support rollers in the rear. I removed the 2 rear drum support rollers and decided to order 2 of... Read more

Removed LP Orifice and LP Gas limiter. Orifice was easy, however the gas limiter was the tricky one because I had no instructions to what went where. I could not find anything online as to how to convert from LP to Natural Gas, but you could find several things as to how to convert from Natural to LP. I ended up finding the Dryer schematic on line for the Whirlpool Duet natural gas dryer and was able to figure out what sequence the Spring, regulator and limiter went in. The order I just... Read more

• Door won't close

Knowing that several things could be causing the noise, I ordered parts to cover all possibilities; once I got inside the dryer, I found the Idler Arm and Idler Pulley were worn and loose; replaced them and the Tumbler Bearings; the dryer now runs quiet again. Was going to replace the Drive Belt but believe it to be the wrong model, it was narrower and had 4 ribs whereas the old one seems to be OK and I believe has 5 ribs. The Drum Rollers and Shafts were OK Also replaced the Door Latch. Read more

• Won't start
• No heat or not enough heat

Did some dryer repair research (dryer not heating) on the internet. Bought an ohm meter, opened up the dryer and tested the cut-off-T, high limit thermostat, dryer igniter, flame sensor, cycling thermostat for continuity. The igniter was bad, the other parts tested ok. Went online to AppliancePartsPros.com searched for a new igniter for my specific dryer model, found the right replacement igniter and watched the video on how to replace the igniter. Because my dryer is old (15+ years) and I... Read more

One day my wife went to bake something and the bake/broil buttons as well as #3, #9, and oven light ceased to work. Local repair guy came by and wanted to charge $500 to fix it....YEAH RIGHT! Did a little homework and found this website, spoke with knowledgable staff who pointed me in the right direction. Took me all of about 20 minutes to install new control panel..everything works perfect...THANKS! p.s. In doing my research come to find Maytag did little to insulate control panel from oven... Read more

It took me about 2 hours to take everything apart and get it back together & running again with no problems. All the parts I ordered were exactly what I needed to fix everything. Thank you all !!! Read more

• Too hot

I removed the front panel and observed the heating element while running the dryer. It was cycling off every minute or so and staying off for several minutes. Even though it was likely the high temp cycling thermostat I replaced both the 14, and 15 cycling thermostats which I think are the original factory units. That makes them nearly 35 years old. Problem fixed. Read more

I went on line and purchased all of the possible parts that could be worn out. I spent less than the service guy wanted to show up...The online videos were spot on. Two hours and it works like new! One of the best values on the Internet! Read more

First replaced the drum rollers...that wasn't it..took dryer back apart and spun the belt tension wheel by hand (should have done this the first time I took the dryer apart) and it squeaked. so I ordered the full parts: wheel, idler arm, idler spring, arm sleeve, E ring..Put it back together and whoa..no more squealing!! Read more

The kit was very simple it took longer to take the dryer apart than it did to do the change over and it works great thank you for you're product Read more

• Takes too long to dry

Replaced timer and cycling thermostat. cycling thermostat was the problem. For some reason it wasn't getting the message to the timer needed to cycle the dial. Read more

Replaced valve had some trouble removing the fitting from the valve as the new fitting was slightly too large and had to be replaced with the fitting from the old valve. Used a large crescent wrench to grip the valve at the base and I was able to apply enough force to remove both fittings transferring old fitting to new valve. The instructions were detailed and excellent. The dryer is up and running fine. Read more

• Noisy

Replaced them. Read more

Ordered Bake Element, Y04100019 (Whirlpool AP4283614) to replace a broken bake element on my 30-year old Jenn-Air Model S125 Downdraft Slide-in electric range. Received the element very quickly but it had been damaged in shipping. Called AppliancePartsPros to report this and they quickly shipped another element - very easy process. To install the element, I turned off the power to the range, put on rubber gloves (just in case) and removed the two sheet metal crews at the rear of the oven -... Read more