Amana Parts

• Won't start
• Timer will not advance
• No heat or not enough heat
• Touchpad does not respond

I did the recommended checks of parts as listed on the website. I would recommend as one other person did but I did not listen the first time and that is to check all the parts don't stop at the first part you find bad. As I had to make two orders paying shipping twice because I thought I found a bad part when testing the igniter but the thermal fuse was also bad and since in a different part of the machine I did not take the time to check it, bad mistake. Also one tool mentioned in the video... Read more

• Heat stays on after drum has stopped
• Will not tumble
• Touchpad does not respond
• No heat or not enough heat

Unpluged dryer first. Then took the lint filter out and removed the two philips screws inside the lint filter lid. Then take a paint scraper just under the top of the dryer two inches from the left front corner and pushed in a little to release the snap connector and did the same on the right side. Then lifted top over. Then take a 5/16 socket or nut driver and remove the two screws on on the left inside panel, then the right side. Lean front out a little and remove the two wires one the back... Read more

• No heat or not enough heat
• Doesn't shut off
• Touchpad does not respond

After 22 years my Kenmore (Whirlpool) dryer stopped getting hot. So I went ahead and reviewed the videos and figured I could repair it myself. It should be noted that the only part that failed the Ohm test was the thermal fuse. However, I figured that since I have it apart, I might as well go ahead and replace the heating element and the cycling thermostat. Here is a rundown of what I did and how long it took: • Taking the back off and vacuum <1 minute • Finding the components (from the... Read more

• Too hot
• Timer will not advance
• Takes too long to dry
• Doesn't shut off

After 22 years my Kenmore (Whirlpool) dryer stopped getting hot. So I went ahead and reviewed the videos and figured I could repair it myself. It should be noted that the only part that failed the Ohm test was the thermal fuse. However, I figured that since I have it apart, I might as well go ahead and replace the heating element and the cycling thermostat. Here is a rundown of what I did and how long it took: • Taking the back off and vacuum <1 minute • Finding the components (from the... Read more

• Noisy

I am very glad to find the AppliancePartsPros.com website! Their instructional videos and easy parts reference made all the difference. I had originally planned to have someone come to fix my dryer, but no one was available for at least a week. I checked out their site, and after watching the videos I felt confident I could repair my appliance. I determined that a drum roller wheel had gone bad. Apparently it was going bad over the last five years since the dryer always seemed to rattle a... Read more

• No heat or not enough heat
• Takes too long to dry
• Too hot

I am not an electrician, just a housewife with limited funds and a desire to DIY. I used the provided videos for knowing how to replace everything except the heating element which I just guessed based on other reviews and seeing how the other parts worked. Our dryer is 11 years old Whirlpool Gold HE and I have only ever cleaned the lint tray. My husband replaced the belt about five years ago and he did clean out the inside of the dryer. Started by ordering a thermal fuse because it was... Read more

• Timer will not advance
• No heat or not enough heat
• Shuts off too soon
• Takes too long to dry

I'm starting with a quick background on my dryer. About 18 months ago the belt on the dryer started slipping and squealing. I had a can of belt dressing spray so I popped the top open and sprayed the belt. It actually worked for about a year before it started squealing again. For the next 6 months I had to spray it more and more often. Then the clothes stopped drying. Obviously, at this point, I had to get off my lazy ass and fix the dryer. Searched my dryer's model number on the internet and... Read more

I ordered 4 of this part from AppliancePartsPros.com and watched the repair video of the product. This was a simple repair that took 10 minutes to replace all 4 wheel units on the bottom rack. Product is exact match to the part I replaced. Read more

Watched video. Took dryer apart to get to heating element and sensors. In process found alot of lint had escaped into inner dryer and had a thick coating over heating element. I cleaned out most lint and pulled apart lint trap on front and cleaned out as much accumulated lint as possible. I then removed the heating element (very simple, three screws in a support bracket) and found it was broke in one spot.(wire - element severed). I believe the heavy lint build up on elements caused lint to... Read more

• Timer will not advance
• No heat or not enough heat
• Too hot
• Doesn't shut off

After 22 years my Kenmore (Whirlpool) dryer stopped getting hot. So I went ahead and reviewed the videos and figured I could repair it myself. It should be noted that the only part that failed the Ohm test was the thermal fuse. However, I figured that since I have it apart, I might as well go ahead and replace the heating element and the cycling thermostat. Here is a rundown of what I did and how long it took: • Taking the back off and vacuum <1 minute • Finding the components (from the... Read more

• Will not agitate
• Spins slowly

I had previously replaced the pump about 1 year ago. That was not the problem. Still leaked the same way - intermittently, but always in the center of the washer onto the floor. None of the hoses were leaking - no evidence of corrosion or water mineral residue at any of the hose fittings. So, it must have been something else. I studied the parts diagram for the washer tub assembly and concluded the source of the leak almost had to be the outer tub's Centerpost Gasket. It was really the... Read more

I bought the new arm assembly because after a few times of going in through the front of the machine and reaching in the back under the drum I could get to the pulley, so I took it off of the arm and lubed it and then replaced it back inside, put the belt back on and it was good for a week or so , then started squeaking again. So after doing this about 6 times I got the impression that is was the wheel and shaft on the arm were worn out causing the wheel to wobble and wear the arm. I then... Read more

• Doesn't shut off
• Won't start
• Will not tumble

I realized my load of laundry was still wet after a normal drying cycle. My first action was to turn the dryer on (2010 gas Maytag centennial) and open the front port to look at the ignitor coil. It never turned orange so I knew there must be a problem with the primary circuit. I shut off the dryer, disconnected the power, pulled it away from the wall, shutoff the gas, and removed the back panel. I then disconnected the wires for the thermal fuse and checked its resistance with a multimeter.... Read more

• Not drying dishes properly
• Not cleaning dishes properly

My Whirlpool dishwasher (wdf520padm3) started leaving food on dishes and not drying dishes as well as it used to, even when I ran the 'high temp' and 'heavy' cleaning options. This started happening after about 3 years of operation. To try to diagnose the issue, I started the diagnostics cycle (see below for instructions on how to do this). However, the 'Clean' LED is also not working on my dishwasher, so I was unable to read the error code after the service cycle finished. I decided to... Read more

• Pumps but will not spin
• Will not agitate
• Burning smell
• Touchpad does not respond

My whirlpool washer was no longer spinning, so my first stop was YouTube where I found the video from AppliancePartsPros showing how to replace the motor coupling. In addition to the replacement guide, Matt also shows you how to diagnose the problem by looking for rubber shavings under the washer. Seeing the rubber shavings under the washer, combined with the fact that the washer still drained meant that the motor was still working, so something else in the drive train was bad. I took the... Read more

My discharge would not empty after a wash cycle and I always had gross gray water left in the bottom approx 3" deep? After doing the obvious things of checking the simp for garbage, and checking that the discharge hose wasn't blocked, I removed my discharge pump ( not too hard to do) and tested. My pump which did run and turn the impeller. However, the pump evidently had weakened with time and weakened and could no longer pump the waste water up hill to the "T" connection under the sink. A... Read more