Washer Belt Boot Parts

This was my first attempt, ever, to repair a washing machine. After some internet research on the problems, I was able to determine that the shaft seal on the gearcase probably was leaking water into the gearcase with each use. No water was ever found on the floor, but when I turned the washer over to inspect the gearcase, I found a black, oily residue on the outside of it along with the same residue on the pulleys, the belt and the motor. I ordered a new gearcase, shift actuator, splutch... Read more

• Spins slowly
• Burning smell
• Pumps but will not spin
• Noisy

The washer was on, and I heard a faint humming sound in the laundry room. I went in and opened the washer and it was full of soapy water in the middle of its cycle and was not agitating. I also smelled a faint burning smell. At this point I figured the problem was a bad motor, as the washer is more than 20 years old. I have fixed it twice before, because the first time, the repairman said I should keep this washer going as long as possible. It was made to last with a metal drum, unlike newer... Read more

I noticed the rubber seal (bellow) was damaged near the bottom of the bellow. It looks like removing clothes from the machine had worn away and eventually ripped away some of the seal. This caused water to leak out the bottom of the door. I looked up the model number of my washer on the web and searched for the part number of the bellow. Once I found it I searched eBay, Amazon and a few other places for the part number and opted for Appliance Parts Pros. The part was reasonably priced and... Read more

• Leaks water

Repair went fairly smoothly by following the EXCELLENT how-to video provided. I had only a few issues and suggestions. 1. Because many of the screws and fasteners are of multiple sizes, I would recommend laying them out in a muffin tray or on a paper with labels for where they go back. 2. After removing the weights and prepping to remove the shock absorbers, after the front ones were removed, the tub tilted so far the rear shock absorber separated. The friction pads fell out. It was easy... Read more

I watched the video that was shown on this website to slide the top back, remove the control panel, remove the front panel of the washer, remove the old gasket (the two tension springs are easy to get off, not as easy to replace), cleaned out years of gunk and soap that had built up behind the gasket for 10 years as well as under the rollers in the drum (each roller has a screw, remove it, slide the roller assembly forward and lift up to take off the rollers, and the roller can be broken down... Read more

• Leaking

I had previously replaced the pump about 1 year ago. That was not the problem. Still leaked the same way - intermittently, but always in the center of the washer onto the floor. None of the hoses were leaking - no evidence of corrosion or water mineral residue at any of the hose fittings. So, it must have been something else. I studied the parts diagram for the washer tub assembly and concluded the source of the leak almost had to be the outer tub's Centerpost Gasket. It was really the... Read more

I found a YouTube video, order the parts about midnight Saturday and-they came in the mail before lunch on Tuesday. I laid the washer on the rear panel, removed both pulleys to clean them, installed the speed sensor. bolted the pulleys back in place, installed the new belt-making sure it was centered and everything moved freely, and attached the belt/pulleys cover. I set the washer back up, reattached the water lines, placed the drain tube, and plugged in back in. Works like new !!! 30 minutes... Read more

I put this repair off for a long time because I knew the machine would have to be completely torn down to fix it. The repair videos give you the impression that this condition is caused by a bad 'Tub Bearing' which takes a long time to replace but only costs about $15. Don't be lulled into thinking you can fix this for $15. The 'Tub Bearing' is really only a bushing. The one I removed from my washer looked fine but I replaced it anyways. The real problem here is GE's poor design which allows a... Read more

Repair went fairly smoothly by following the EXCELLENT how-to video provided. I had only a few issues and suggestions. 1. Because many of the screws and fasteners are of multiple sizes, I would recommend laying them out in a muffin tray or on a paper with labels for where they go back. 2. After removing the weights and prepping to remove the shock absorbers, after the front ones were removed, the tub tilted so far the rear shock absorber separated. The friction pads fell out. It was easy... Read more

• Leaking

Luckily we planned ahead when building the laundry room, as we built a water catch basin and drain under the washer, but waking up to see 1-2 inches of water is never a good sign - even if it is contained. It appears that a sleeve of a shirt was accidentally caught between the door mechanism and the bellow seal. After a few hundred revolutions in the washer, the shirt knotted up and was torn free of its pinch - in doing so, it tore a quarter sized hole in the rubber bellow seal. This was,... Read more

Replaced the belt. Read more

• Burning smell
• Will not agitate
• Spins slowly
• Pumps but will not spin

I Purchased a new belt and replaced it. If I had not watched the video telling me how it is done the job would have been much more difficult. After watching the video I changed the belt in less than 2 minutes. I ordered the belt from Appliance Parts Pros and got it the next day. I am thankful that when I started my search I landed on your web site. Thanks for the quick service and the video. Read more

• Will not tumble
• Won't start
• Noisy

My GE dryer from the late 80's/early 90's was squealing when it would start up, belt or bearing I was thinking. I found a manual online that covered my model and I watched a video on this site that showed me how to take it all apart, mine was a bit different but the principles were the same. I took it apart and added some quick-disconnects to 2 wires so next time I can take the front panel off easily. When I got to the bearing it looked worn but not bad so I cleaned it and put it back. ... Read more

I called an appliance repair company. They use a flat rate billing system which I don't like. They told me it will cost around $250.00 to replace the gasket and I would have to move my machine out so he would have room to repair it. He said the part would be in in 5 days. I found you on line, ordered the part for around $69.00 and to my delight there was a video on how the repairs should be done. The video was very professionally done and I watched it twice just to memorize the procedure. ... Read more

Replaced the lid lock 1st which fixed the lid not closed error but the machine would still not drain or spin. Replaced the control board next and now the machine works as it should. Read more

• Marks left on clothes

Remove Top of washer Remove Top bracket that covers soap dispenser Disconnect plug that leads to the front control panel Remove 3 screws from underneath the bottom kickplate, remove kickplate Remove 2 screws holding Door, remove door Remove screws holding the front of the machine Using long Phillips screwdriver, loosen the screw that connects the metal wire band that encircles the rubber baffle on the Tub side, remove band Using needle nose pliers, remove the door side baffle ring by pulling... Read more